RIP to BT Garner of MindRec.com... He passed away early 2023 from health problems. BT was one of the top PCE homebrew developers and founder of the OG Turbo List, then PCECP.com. Condolences to family and friends.
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Messages - gameofyou

#1
Quote from: SignOfZeta on 08/14/2016, 07:17 PMI eventually found the Windows 7 netbook (Shortest lived fad in computing history, netbooks? Maybe.) and made an attempt to flash something new onto my card. However it doesn't work, for some reason. The card no longer has Logic on it but I can't seem to get anything to flash now. The card was working perfectly until I tried to change the game.
Yeah, I have seen this happen on a few cards.  I have never been able to determine if the bare pcb's are to blame or the soldering process.  Usually the cause is that a connection has opened up (either a pcb via, or a cold solder joint).  This prevents the erase cycle from happening, as it should.  You will know this if the led begins flashing right away after clicking download.  Normally, there will be a few seconds where the flash is erased, before the led starts flashing.

Reflowing the solder to the microcontroller and the flash chips might fix it.  You could maybe even do this in a toaster oven, if you can't solder small pins.  You can also try putting light pressure against the microcontroller and flash chips, with your fingers, while the download is happening.  Sometimes this works.
#2
Hey all,
 
I know it has been a very long time.  I only have a few bare PCBs left from my original order.  I have come to the conclusion that I will no longer have the time to build these.  So my plan is to, very soon, post the schematics, BOM, Gerbers, ...ect, on my web page.

So, basically, anyone who has the time and skills can build these cards up, as many as they want.

I will still provide the microcontroller (which will be pre-programmed).  This way I can still make a couple bucks to reimburse my prototyping and design time.  I think that is a fair solution, and hopefully everyone will be satisfied with that solution.
 
It will probably be a couple months before this happens, and I'll post here when I have my web page updated.
 
Honestly, I didn't think there would be much demand, once the Everdrive was released.  But I still get many requests for this card, so I figured it is time to pass the torch.
#3
This is awesome.  It reminds me of, back in the 90's, when Sega gave away the Christmas Nights game.
#4
Lol, I was out of town & couldn't figure out how to upload a larger image on my tiny IPhone.
Here is the article:
http://www.gamingenterprisesinc.com/temp/retro1.jpg
 
And here is the magazine cover:
http://www.gamingenterprisesinc.com/temp/retro2.jpg

I would track it down & put the article in a frame.  That's what I did when they had a small article on the Saturn DataLink.  And you got a whole frikkin page!!!
#5
Hey dude, congrats on Atlantean getting an article in Retrogamer Magazine(load 132).  I'll try to post a better photo when I get home.

Better picture:  http://www.gamingenterprisesinc.com/temp/retro1.jpg
#6
Received mine today.  Very nice!  Thanks for putting all the effort into this.
#7
Luckily, there are no traces routed underneath the edge card connectors, so I should be able to sand that area down a little without damaging any traces.
 
If I had the time I would definately help out with your cards.  I am having a hard time keeping up with my own projects, unfortunately.  Lol.
#8
Quote from: TheOldMan on 12/10/2013, 01:40 PMROFLMAO: I can give it a shot, or send it back, your call.  I will warn you I might screw it up if I try re-soldering the chip: My current setup has *no* temp control, and I've over-heated a few chips making the ABCards.  Let us know what you want to do.

I don't know anything about the ABCards that you are building, but I will share something that I recently got burned by.  The PCBs I order are a standard thickness of .093", which is a good fit for the PC-Engine connector.  However, apparently a lot of PCB manufacturers have a thickness tolerance of +- 10%.  This is a huge variation, & I actually have some PCBs that are so thick they won't even fit in the PC-Engine.
 
Just something to be aware of....
 
My short -term solution will be to sand a few thousandths of an inch from the thick ones.
#9
I made a small batch over the weekend, so there currently are some available to purchase thru my website.
#10
I'm glad you were able to get it working again, and there is no permanent damage!
 
When I build these boards, I just use a fine-tipped soldering iron.  But the secret is to use plenty of flux, so that the solder wants to suck to the pins.  It took me a while to get good at it.
 
In addition to the address/data lines, there is also a WRITE signal and BUSY signal which could have failed.  If it is either of these two signals, then it would still work fine in the PC-Engine.  This is my guess.
 
I have been planning to post the schematics on my web site for a while now, but haven't gotten around to it yet.  Probably, over the Christmas break I will have time to do this.
#11
The fact that the led is blinking, tells me that it is receiving USB data correctly, so there is no issue with the USB communication.
#12
If the erase procedure is not occurring (should take approx 5 seconds...led on card will be OFF, and PC will say "please wait, erasing flash), then most likely it is a solder connection has failed on one of the address or data lines.  It could also be that a via has failed (opened), but this is less likely.
 
Reflowing the solder on the flash chip and micro controller chip will probably solve the problem.  Unfortunately, the pins are so tiny that it is difficult to do, unless you are skilled at surface mount soldering.
 
You can try placing light pressure on the flash and micro controller with your fingers during the download.  This exta pressure might be enough to make the connection.
 
The card must be disconnected from the USB cable after each download attempt, though.
 
You only have to check the "flip bits" checkbox if you are playing the game on a JPN system.
#13
Sweet dude!  Looks really nice!
#14
Ok, I've done a little cleaning lately, and have found some odds and ends that I want to sell.  I have:
 
- Super Star Soldier Instructions
- R-Type I original case and instructions
- Genpei Toumaden: Kannoni original case and instructions
- 2 empty PC-engine game cases (not sure what games they were originally to).
 
See photo.  Hopefully, somebody needs some of these things for their collection.  I would like to sell it all as a set.  Just make me an offer.
Just to be clear, these are only game cases (no games).

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#15
If you want to mention the Low-Cost Flash HuCard somewhere in there, that would be cool.  :)
#16
Quote from: esadajr on 05/07/2013, 11:05 PMHi, I'm having an issue. If I try to load a different game, the software won't erase the flash card, it will just skip to the loading phase, you can see the progress, the card led is flashing, and the software will say everything went fine. However in reality is not doing anything.

It is stuck with Magical Chase (J). The MC curse maybe.
This can happen if a solder connection has opened on any of the micro controller or flash memory pins (or there is a short across two pins).  Usually, it just takes re-flowing the solder on all the IC pins.  I can do this for you.
#17
Quote from: SignOfZeta on 04/19/2013, 12:28 AMThe other day I got THIS COOL THING and after yelling at the only Windows machine left in the house (a crappy ass Samsung netbook...remember those?) for two hours I finally got it working.
Lol.  I'm glad you finally got it working.  :)
#18
Quote from: MotherGunner on 04/15/2013, 02:08 PMHi Guys, aside from the obvious (which is money), does anyone know why/how some companies are able to create retro hardware?

Discuss.
I think there are 2 main methods.  1) you can design a system with a powerful CPU, and have it run emulation software.  Or 2) you can reproduce the original hardware inside an FPGA chip.
#19
Hey Arkhan,
 
I'm curious how many of these have sold so far.  Are you keeping track (or are you serial numbering them)?
 
I would definitely buy one, but currently, my system only plays HuCards.  Good luck with it, though!
#20
This is a shameless bump, to say that I have finally had time to make another batch of cards.   :o
#21
Nice!  Very professional looking!  Great job!
#22
Good to hear!
 
I am going to take a short break from building these, but in a month or so, I will build another batch and re-open orders.


Quote from: tpivette on 02/12/2013, 03:31 PMI just recieved mine the other day. Very easy to set up and download a game. Works great, and can't beat the price!

I'd like to add that this product fits into a standard HuCard sleeve (the mini-USB drive just fits), and it's able to fit into a case with manual no problems or bulging/space issues.
#23
I usually use isopropyl alcohol on the contacts.  I would think that something like Windex would work well to clean the plastic parts.
#24
Quote from: T2KFreeker on 10/26/2012, 06:53 PMHmm, I think I know what I am getting myself on the first. This is frickin' cool man. Hopefully you still have some available by then.
My plan is to keep these in stock for a very long time.  The orders have slowed down enough, that I should be able to keep up with assembling them for the foreseeable future.
#25
Quote from: ConHuevos on 10/26/2012, 01:24 PMReceived my replacement, works great!  Thank you very much for your great service!
Good to hear!  Also, I have received your non-working card, & will take a look at it when I get a chance.  Since I had already reflowed the solder, my guess is that it is a problem with the pcb itself.
#26
Quote from: dshadoff on 10/21/2012, 12:52 PMWow, this looks fantastic - I just ordered one for myself.

I have a question about the addressability of the flash memory from within a program...

Years ago, I had used Jerry DaSilva's TurboROM board in conjunction with AMD 29F040B DIP flash memory.
At the time, I had written a flash version of the "Ten no Koe" bank card, to copy the backup memory contents into the flash memory itself for longer-term archiving.

It worked fine, on a TurboGrafx-16, but it didn't work so well on the TurboDuo - I concluded that it was because of the power available from the cartridge bus being sufficient to read the flash, but insufficient to write into it.  (Those boards didn't do download, thus the only power draw was the flash chip itself, which must have required a lot of juice.)

Since your version uses a TSOP chip (probably a more recent shrink), and there was a comment about lower current drain, I was curious as to whether this approach may work for your board.

So, I have a couple of questions:
1) Do you inhibit /WR from the PC Engine bus to the flash memory ?  (ie. this would prevent it from being writable while in-circuit)
2) Roughly what vintage are the flash chips - 0.5um ?  0.35um ?  (Not sure if they made this easy to determine).  5V-native chips are probably pretty old... also wondering the rated rewrite cycles ?  I believe they were insanely huge numbers back then.
3) Is it possible to read from the flash memory via the USB ?  If so, does your software already do this ?
This information is in the first page of posts, but I'll repost it here:
 
 I am using a MX29F800C flash chip (cheap & available at Digikey).  You can see the datasheet here:
http://www.gamingenterprisesinc.com/temp/MX29F800C.pdf
 
And here is the circuit schematic for the HuCard/Flash interface:
http://www.gamingenterprisesinc.com/temp/HuCard_Schematic_V01.pdf

The connection between the edge connector and flash chip for the /WR is present (as you can see in the interface schematic).  The datasheet will tell you everything you want to know about the flash chip that is used.  I did not add any capability into the software to read data out over usb.
#27
Quote from: ConHuevos on 10/19/2012, 07:52 AMI'm having issues with mine not erasing the flash when writing a new rom again.  In fact, it was never really fixed after you sent it back.  Any ideas what to do? =/
I can replace it with a new one, if you want to send it back to me.
#28
I know most people thought this would never happen, lol, but I have finally updated the Downloader software.  I have caught up with hardware assembly, so I decided to add the ROM Conversion functionality into my software.  It is basically the same functionality as ConHuevos' stand-alone application.  But now it is integrated into the Downloader software.  This is nice because only a single application needs to be run now, to do everything.  Also, for newcomers, only one software install is required now.
 
You can download the software from the main page:
http://www.gamingenterprisesinc.com/Flash_HuCard/

And there is a brief overview of it on the Rom Tips page:
http://www.gamingenterprisesinc.com/Flash_HuCard/rom_tips.html
#29
Quote from: Bloody Wolf on 09/06/2012, 01:05 AMDang low cost flash card!!! Now this is something i need!!!!
Darn straight!  Buy a couple.  :)
#30
Thanks for the feedback.  I'm glad that most of you are up & running successfully with the cards.

Paisa49, I usually pull the card out by grabbing the USB connector from the top & bottom.
#31
Quote from: esadajr on 08/20/2012, 12:07 PMI've been unable to get any japanese game to work. I use the rom converter to remove the header, then flash my game checking the "swap bit" option. However I only get a white screen. The japanese games I've tried (with no luck) so far are Detana Twinbee, Coryoon and the japanese version of Splatterhouse.
This has been a source of confusion, but I believe the User Manual is now correct.  If your SYSTEM is Japanese, then you need to check the 'flip bits' box (for all games).  If your SYSTEM is USA, then you should not check the box (for any games).
 
I will be interested to see if the Supergrafx games work.  I don't know of anyone that's tried it yet.
#32
Quote from: Tatsujin on 07/19/2012, 12:26 AMwhat was the intention of limiting the GOY to 8Mbit only? Looking at todays flash prices even a 100 time of that storage wouldn't have had much influences on its end price.
There were a lot of reasons for making the basic 8Mbit card:  low power, low cost, no menus, low parts count (needed to keep the card size to a standard HuCard size).
 
Like thesteve said, there is no need for mapping logic.  But also, you will be very hard pressed to find a larger parallel flash memory device than what I'm using, which uses a 5v supply.  So then you would have to look into level translators or using multiple flash chips.
 
I wanted to make something that would use the minimum amount of parts, and have a low price point. 
 
By the way, I have made some more cards, & hopefully I will be able to keep up with orders now, so that I can keep the checkout basket open from here on.
#33
Quote from: thesteve on 07/27/2012, 10:48 AMnew batch?
any changes?
No changes, I'm just finally getting time to build some more up, lol.
 
When I use up all of the bare pcbs that I have, I will probably make some minor changes to the pcb, before I order the next batch.  That won't be until next year for sure, though.
#34
I was able to build up a small amount of flash HuCards over the weekend, so I have put the checkout basket back on my web page.
 
http://www.gamingenterprisesinc.com/Flash_HuCard/
#36
Nice!  Thanks for the plug.  Now I need to get some more cards assembled!   :)
#37
I have just sold the last card, from this first batch.  If you did not get one yet, do not panic.  I WILL make another (small) batch soon.  It probably won't be for a few weeks, at least, though.
 
I'll make a post when I have some available again.
#38
Quote from: esteban on 07/04/2012, 10:41 AMWell, in the past two months this project has reached fruition! Yet one more thing to try and budget for...

gameofyou: how many Flash HuCards do you have left? Thanks in advance... :pcgs:
I still have about 10 left from this first batch.  I'm not sure when I'll get time to make more, but I will make some more to keep on hand, when these sell out.
 
Also, I have made a very small update to the PC software.  The text-tip for the checkbox is changed to be less confusing.  Also, there is text stating when it is safe to disconnect the HuCard from USB (after download is complete).  For people that have already installed the original version, you can just copy the new "HuCard_8M.exe" over the original one.
#39
Quote from: arromdee on 06/26/2012, 05:13 PMWould it be possible to create a PCE/TG-16 Hu-card adapter for a similar or lower price?

(Just asking out of curiosity--I still have my old green diving board adapter from back in the day, so I wouldn't need one.)
I agree with MottZilla.  The difficult part would be finding (or making) the HuCard connector.
#40
Quote from: burn_654 on 06/27/2012, 10:34 PMJust wanted to say I've been enjoying your flash hucard quite a bit! Been running US and Japanese roms (and some homebrew tests) successfully!

All this is in the 'US' position of my mod switch, strangely, but that doesn't bother me. The aforementioned clarity of what options should be set for what console would help that out I would think. Maybe a wizard/option at the launch of the program? "What region console are you using?"

Oh! The message stating that the flash finished did show up - it must have been a fluke that first time. :-"
Awesome!  Thanks for the feedback!  I'm glad you are up and running.
 
Now that I have completed the build of the first 48 boards, I am actually getting to play around with the card, myself.  I was finally able to try out Bloody Wolf & it is awesome.  It has been on my purchase list for a long time, but the JPN version is surprisingly difficult to track down.  I will definately be buying it, when I find one.
#41
By the way, ConHuevos, your converter tool is awesome.  I played around with it last night.  This will make it a LOT easier for people to get up and running with commercial games.  I have added a link to it from my website.
#42
Quote from: ConHuevos on 06/22/2012, 12:00 PMGlad that's figured out.  So basically we'll just have the change the description to that option depending on the system you're going to run the ROM off of, not the ROM itself.  Right?
It seems like this is the case.  Thanks everyone for the input.  I will modify my instructions, to make it more clear for people.
#43
This is the HuCard pinout that I used.  I could never find clear confirmation if this was the Turbografx or PC-Engine.  I believe, based on the results, that it must be a USA pinout.
 
http://www.gamingenterprisesinc.com/temp/HuCard_Schematic_V01.pdf
 
So does that mean the bits need to be flipped for both USA and JPN games on a PC-Engine?  It appears so.

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#44
Quote from: burn_654 on 06/20/2012, 05:48 PMApologies, I meant the American position of my physical mod switch.
I have a japanese console.
Ninja Gaiden was burned after removing the header with ConHuevos' tool (fairly sure mine is from a GoodSet), but only works when the physical console switch is in the American position.

It works, it's just odd.
This is something I'm still trying to figure out also.  My instructions for the 'Bit swapping checkbox' may be wrong.  I'm starting to think that the box needs checked if you are playing on a JPN system (regardless of whether it is a USA game or not).
 
Hopefully, we can come to a concensus on this as people report back what they are finding on their systems.
#45
Quote from: burn_654 on 06/20/2012, 02:37 PMP.S. If at all possible I'd make a popup/note after it's finished flashing that it's safe to unplug the card...I figured it out after the Transmission bar was full but it'd be nice to have the reassurance.
There is a popup, after download is complete.  Does it not come up on your system?
 
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#46
After I finish building the final 8 units (should be able to do it this weekend), I am going to hold on any further building of boards until everyone is working correctly.  I want to make sure that there are no issues, before I build another batch.
 
It looks like there were a few of the early ones sent out with inadequate solder on some pins.  I have greatly improved my solder/clean/test procedure since then, & I don't anticipate any future problems.  But I will definately repair any board for free if it has assembly problems.
 
If you can't get your card working, the best thing to do is email me directly.  By knowing a couple things from your PC, and knowing what the indicator light does, I can determine the problem fairly accurately.
#47
Quote from: ccovell on 06/18/2012, 12:44 AMUhm... guess you forgot about this issue in the other thread 2 months ago:
 
I just got the flash card today and though the COM port seems to be mapping fine (COM4), the software again times out...  (on my Win XP SP2 machine.)  Time to try with a Windows 7 machine...
You are correct, I forgot.  I have about a million irons in the fire right now.  :)
 
If you can't get your setup working, send me an email & we can try a few things.
#48
Quote from: ConHuevos on 06/17/2012, 06:54 PMYa, I'll work on it a bit tonight, I'll need some more information from you about the serial port data and how the card expects the upload gameof, if you've got a skype that would be a great way to discuss, just PM me, e-mail me, or post it here.   In the mean time, I'll start writing up removing the header, fixing 384KB roms, and the bit swap.
It's a pretty simple program.  We can probably handle any Q/A thru email.  If it helps (for the serial data), I have done a writeup of its operation here:  http://www.gamingenterprisesinc.com/Flash_HuCard/Flash_HuCard_PC_Protocol_V10.pdf
#49
Quote from: guest on 06/17/2012, 11:21 AMWorks brilliantly. Tested Parasol Stars and plays with no glitches so far.

It would be awesome if the flashcard software could be updated to combine this and the header removal features.
That is definately the plan.  Along with the Secondary protection feature (changing the 0xF0 to 0x80).
 
ConHuevos has volunteered to help me out with these PC updates, while I complete the hardware builds.  I think we should still allow all these new functions to be deselected, though.  Since the initial purpose for this card was for homebrew, I don't want the software to automatically jack up someone's 384K homebrew, without them knowing it.
#50
Quote from: gameofyou on 06/16/2012, 07:23 PM
Quote from: guest on 06/16/2012, 06:18 PMAlso, I notice that for every rom, regardless of Japanese or US, I always have to check the 'Swap Data Bits' to get it to run on my Japanese Duo. The instructions lead you to believe that you only do this when a rom does not match the country you are using it with, which is not correct, unless every Japanese rom I have has been hacked to US region....unlikely.
The instructions are correct.  As unlikely as it seems, your Japanese ROMs have apparently already been converted to US region.  It is the only possible explanation.
 
...and you're welcome!
I am rethinking this now, & you may be right.  You might have to swap bits, only if you're playing on a JPN system.  I don't have a USA system to try it on, but if this turns out to be the case, then I will change the instructions.  Thanks!