@GTV reviews the Cosmic Fantasy 1-2 Switch collection by Edia, provides examples of the poor English editing/localization work. It's much worse for CF1. Rated "D" for disappointment, finding that TurboGrafx CF2 is better & while CF1's the real draw, Edia screwed it up...
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Messages - Fidde_se

#1
I have mostly had the switch for closing cover gone bad so not looked closer on the circuitry behind that but the switch might lead to a circuit that is powered with one of the faulty rails and therefor not working correctly, so fix the rail might "fix" the cover....
#2
Glad it gets used.

When a rail is low it's not always the regulator thats gone bad, it's often something that brings it down, very often (but unfortunatly not always) that leaves a heat trace, so you can find it with a thermal camera within seconds, poor mans version use cold/freezespray and spray it on the board, a thin layer of frosting will appear on the board and where its warm it will melt, thats where the component bringing down the rail is located.
#3
The leak voltage comes from the 1000uF cap fluid in the regulation part on the other side of the board, its well documented here before, but I guess this works too.
#5
Doesn't the LT work with the IFU straight out of the box?
#6
Choijimmy sells them, he's here on our forum, quality stuff.
#7
IMG

Can only confirm what other's already found, this cap the C301 (1000uF) always seems to leak and continue to give low volume problem even after a full recap if this isn't cleaned good.

The picture shows the under side where this line goes all the way to the separate audio board,
and it's under UV light and revealing the electrolyte as a dark/purple tone, the board is luckily not
damaged the blackness goes away when cleaned (if you're lucky) unlike when looking on battery leakage on Amiga 500 backup cap on the external memory board....

Look in the middle beside the two resistors, four vias.
#9
Toys'R'Us are unaffected in the Nordic countries for now, there it will live on for some time, stores are owned by TOP-TOY A/S (Denmark) and runs a license to be Toys'R'Us and that license seems to be valid even if the mother corporation goes under, it's only TRU and BR (Fætter BR, Danish too) that's left of all the big toy stores around here, but TRU also sells a lot online here.

Back in the 80 we had Big&Little that was THE toystore here back then, that has somehow
remerged online for being gone in like 20 years time, nostalgic for us...

That logo is for us what TRU are for Americans.
IMG
#10
How's that CD Audio working out for you, ClodBusted?
#11
Quote from: guestThank you so much! I'll use your info tonight to finally fix that weak Redbook audio of my Duo.
Quote from: Fidde_se on 03/05/2018, 01:48 PMWhen you read this the updated 240p Test Suite will probably be released and/or you can try out the Beta.
http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php?title=240p_test_suite
Link doesn't work.
The link works now, some DB updates to his site.
#12
To pinpoint and guide where and why there is low sound on PC-Engine Duo (after re-cap)


Mostly suited for Duo and TurboDuo (Not Duo-R/RX)

For this guide i talked to Artemio and he kindly updated
his 240p Test Suite with new functions which can be used when also troubleshooting the audio on
Duo-R/RX, Super CD-Rom², CD-Rom²/IFU.

When you read this the updated 240p Test Suite will probably be released and/or you can try out the Beta.
http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php?title=240p_test_suite
https://sourceforge.net/projects/testsuite240p/files/PCE-TG16-SCD/

Use the CD-ROM2 or the Super CDROM2 version (for now use "240pSuite_1.04_SuperCDROM-test.zip")

In there you could play a beep before, left, middle, right but now you can also play PSG (as before)
left, middle, right, but also CDDA (Stereo) going to each channel and ADPCM (Mono) going to both channels.




We all know about the bad capacitors plaguing the Duo and TurboDuo,
and after changing them it's very common to hear that there are still
problems, low audio, missing a channel, no voice sampling or cd-audio.

Common practice is while changing the caps to also clean parts of the
board around some of the more leaking caps, checking vias and also lifting
and cleaning underneath the op amps, the 4558, and that's what this is
mostly about the 4558 as there is many Duo's out there which these
problems after cap change, and it's time to put an end to that.


So first change the caps, clean, then read this when something is not
sounding correct.


First we have to explain what an OP-Amp is, or to some extent, it stands
for "OPerational AMPlifier", another word for it would simply be
Comparator as that's what it does, and this is actually already at the
heart of our problem, we see it as signal and ground in our heads but a
comparator see's two inputs and comparing them, usually these kinds of
circuits uses what's called a negative feedback, meaning a portion of
the amplified signal is sent back to keep the circuit in check, if one
of these two inputs has a rupture in it's signal path it's not amplifying
right, and to make it worse on the Duo they are cascaded with signals
from each audio source, one for ADPCM, CD-Audio, HuCard (DIN) and finally headphone amp.


Additional Info:
Headphone Potentiometer: (203B) Min->Max
Pin 1-2, 0-27K
Pin 1-3, 0-13.5K
Pin 1-4, 0-13.5K
Pin 1-5, 0-13.5K
Pin 2-3, 0-13.5K
Pin 2-4, 0-13.5K
Pin 2-5, 0-13.5K
Pin 3-4, 0-0 (GND)
Pin 3-5, 0-0 (GND)
Pin 4-5, 0-0 (GND)

Main OP-Amps in this discussion:
IC503 ADPCM
IC521 CD-Audio
IC506 DIN (if lifted then Headphone will still get PSG but no CDDA+ADPCM)
IC507 Headphone Amp


All 4558:
Check that pin 4 has ground connection.
Check that pin 8 has power (≈7.3V)
Power for all 4558 IC506, IC507, IC503, IC521 (also IC203 CD part and IC202 CD part but 4560) gets its regulated power from
Q304 (SMD Mark BR, located in the middle of the cap jungle beside the two main regulators) Japanese SOT-23 (SC-70) incoming
≈8.2V on pin 3, outgoing ≈7.3V on pin 2 and pin 1 should ≈8.0V, IC107 4558 (CD part) however does not get regulated voltage
from Q304 but is powered directly from the same source as Q304 is, meaning IC107 pin 8 will be directly connected to Q304
pin 3, and that pin gets it's voltage from the same pin as IC303 7805 (IN).


So PSG from HuC6280 goes up threw visas and under the HuCard slot comes back to the sec side beside the slot
each with a test point, then going towards IC506 going threw C879 (right) and C878 (left), after those capacitors
there is a new testpoint, then threw R611 (1K left) and R612 (1K right), then going threw R631 (15K Left) and R613 (15K Right) going threw the vias into IC506 but also getting signal from the CDDA/ADPCM.

IC502 OKI M5205 (ADPCM)
Should get ≈5V on pin 18.
On pin 10 the signal goes to pin 6 on IC503 but first threw C652, R657 (1K), R688 (270K).

IC503: ADPCM
Pin 1 ≈3.6V
Pin 2 ≈3.6V
Pin 3 ≈3.6V (connected with pin 5)
Pin 4 GND
Pin 5 ≈3.6V (connected with pin 3)
Pin 6 ≈3.6V
Pin 7 ≈3.6V
Pin 8 ≈7.3V

The signal goes from IC503 pin 3,5 to IC521 pin 3,5

IC521: CD-Audio
Pin 1 ≈3.6V
Pin 2 ≈3.6V
Pin 3 ≈3.6V (connected with pin 5)
Pin 4 GND
Pin 5 ≈3.6V (connected with pin 3)
Pin 6 ≈3.6V
Pin 7 ≈3.6V
Pin 8 ≈7.3V

IC506: DIN
Pin 1 ≈3.6V
Pin 2 ≈3.6V
Pin 3 ≈3.6V (connected with pin 5)
Pin 4 GND
Pin 5 ≈3.6V (connected with pin 3)
Pin 6 ≈3.6V
Pin 7 ≈3.6V
Pin 8 ≈7.3V

IC507: Headphone Amp
Pin 1 ≈3.98V
Pin 2 ≈3.98V
Pin 3 ≈3.6V
Pin 4 GND
Pin 5 ≈3.6V
Pin 6 ≈3.98V
Pin 7 ≈3.98V
Pin 8 ≈7.3V

Headphone Output:
Left channel comes from pin 1 on IC507 (threw C678, 100uF and R693, 120ohm, Right channel comes from pin 7 on IC507
(threw C679, 100uF and R694, 120ohm. If you get all the correct sound in both channels on the DIN then there is
something with or around IC507 focus on that.

You can have headphones on (max volume) and listan after a buzz when you touch pin 2 or 3 on IC507 with something
metallic (Left channel) and pin 5 or 6 (Right channel), if voltages are correct and you hear a buzz on each channel
that op-amp should be OK.

With the same headphone test you can try out IC506, pin 6 buzz to the right, pin 2 buzz to the left, if voltages and
buzzing on each channel then that op-amp should be OK.

Continuing headphone buzz test on IC521, touching pin 6 buzz right, touching pin 2 buzz left, and touching IC503 should
give buzz in both channels (adpcm mono) on pin 6 (loud), pin 2 (weaker), you can nearly with just the buzz test locate
where the problem is.

DIN: Audio
Left on pin 3, Right on pin 4.
Going threw L602 and L601 respectivly.
After that going threw R608, R610 (1K) respectivly.
Then passing threw C604 (10uF right), C610 (10uF left).
From C604 to IC506 pin 7, C610 to IC506 pin 1.

As these op-amps are cascading then if any voltage are wrong on one and making audio low it can be the previous one thats
not working correctly, you can try lifting one and see if some the sound become "loud" again usually when lifting IC506,
(they should be lifted at some point anyhow to remove excessive electrolyte fluid).



Signal into IC506 pin 6 (right) comes from R630 (15K) then to IC504 pin 1, and IC506 pin 2 (left) comes from R628 (15K) then to IC504 pin13.

There are several replacements for 4558 (SO-8), the original is made by JRC but RC4558 (Texas), NJM4558 (New JRC) or LM4558 (Diodes) should work fine.

The HuCard sound (PSG and Simple Voices) comes from HuC6280 pin 17 (Left) pin 18 right



With the 240p Test Suite you can test each channel individually or each soundtype separately,
different volume between left and right or different sound coloration, sometimes it's easier
with headphones and there you can also listen closer for different kinds of static and popping
sounds (that usually comes from leaked electrolyte charging and discharging on the board),
and if your laser is ok you can test the cd audio track to see that it sounds correct (stereo separation on some of the sounds, bongas to the left), and finally a final solution to test the
voice sampling (ADPCM) without the need to find a correct game a wait for the sound to heard,
just hit play and you'll know if it works and it should sound the same on both channels with
the same volume.


Duo 4558 HuC6280:
IMG
Large: https://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/PCE%20DUO%204558/Duo%204558%20HuC6280.jpg

Duo 4558 PRI:
IMG
Large: https://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/PCE%20DUO%204558/Duo%204558%20PRI.jpg

Duo 4558 SEC:
IMG
Large: https://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/PCE%20DUO%204558/Duo%204558%20SEC.jpg

Duo 4558 Volume Knob:
IMG
Large: https://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/PCE%20DUO%204558/Duo%204558%20Volume%20Knob.jpg

240p Test Suite:
IMG
Large: https://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/PCE%20DUO%204558/240p_Test%20Suite.jpg



This values are taken from the Duo with serial: 21031541B
Pictures before recap.

Made by Fredrik Nyqvist 1-3/2018 SWEDEN
And many thanks to Artemio Urbina for updating
his 240p Test Suite with CDDA and ADPCM tests.
#13
Chinas mail are subsidized, it was established in the 1800, for developing countries, it has been a lot of discussions about that here as Sweden are getting 150.000 small packets from china everyday and creating a bottleneck in the system that our postal system gets nothing from only higher costs.

So they have come up with a solution to charge about 9$ for every package coming into the country from the buyer starting March 1 2018.... it's for values under 25$ over that it costs 15$, so hoard stuff from china while you can, more countries will soon follow.... you will get the possibility to not pay and not get the goods and they are sent back but that may only be a right to do here other countries might just send a note to pay up...

For anyone interested google translate this https://www.nordichardware.se/nyheter/de-nya-reglerna-kina-paket-infors-den-1-mars.html
#14
A really good advice is also to get a new laser as that can do wonders, and they are pretty cheap too.
#15
Not a new design... But could be built upon when it's done.

https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=17616.msg369600#msg369600
#16
This is the one, DAN202KT146, the one first in the list
http://eu.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=dan202

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/348/dan202k-1017245.pdf

The ones on ebay or aliexpress are either in wrong package or way to expensive, better to get 10-50 in the right package then 1 for the same price.

SOT-23/SC-59
#19
The long awaited firmware with 4x and 5x linedoubling is here, (linequadrupling/linequintupling)

It's now gone from 720p to 1080p output with higher screen compability too, and presets were available in the firmware before it, it's gone from good to the best =)

Mario in 3x
IMG

Mario in 5x
IMG

Closeup in 5x, every retropixel is now 5 pixels high, razor sharp IRL, pictures can not do it justice.
IMG
#20
Just had a quick check and D6 seems to go to the ribbon cable (First ribbon 9) ending up on pin 16 on the hucard connector and later on to IC201 and pin 12 on that, so if the hucard is still alive then I would guess IC201 is toast...
#21
Upload a picture and I will identify it
#22
Moist in the air will make the corrosion, especially on copper with no tin or green coating, same goes for normal iron.
#24
What makes you think they are bad?
#25
The true gamer needs both a OSSC and a Framemeister, they complement each other.
#26
The most lag comes from the deinterlacing, and some tvs are just plainly bad at it.

In linetriple the output is 720p.
And 4x and 5x seems to be added so it will be more like 1080p.

But this one is definitely not for everyone and not even a Framemeister killer.

For the Lagintolerant.
I think the lag is around 1.5ms and if used with a computer monitor that doesn't have gamemode since its on that all the time it's like 1-4ms added for modern ones.
#27
Quote from: SignOfZeta on 06/30/2016, 08:19 PMThat sure is a lot more complex than just buying a CRT or an XRGB. What is the price, or is that complicated too?
I think the premade is around 200$.
The DIY I got is like 140$.

It's more or less lag free (only add your displays) and in linetriple it's really nice.
#28
You add yourself to the OSSC mailinglist, then you're in line and will get an email when it's ready.

https://www.videogameperfection.com/newsletter/
#29
It's out but few have it, for those of you here who do, what's your result/verdict.
Pros & cons.

PCE/TG16 seems to run great.

http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/OSSC
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/ossc.html
https://www.videogameperfection.com/2016/03/04/open-source-scan-converter-a-first-look/
#30
Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: WTB: PCE Accessories
06/03/2016, 08:43 AM
He needs an RGB solution too...

And while all those running built-in system card 3.0 uses Arcade Duo instead of Arcade Pro the Super CD-ROM2 is the unit that breaks free from that norm, as it's part of the core line it can't use Arcade Duo only Arcade Pro.
#31
The regulator from ELFA is still a pretty standard regulator and won't be much different from the one that once sat there, the modern are switched.

And the price for the modern once are like x20
https://www.elfa.se/search?q=r-78+5.0

The efficiency and difference in temperature can not be compared on the same day...
#32
7805 with proper heatsink can be feeded with 35-40v without problems according to specs so an few extra volt shouldn't make it that much warmer, then there's the new switching regulators that can replace them completely that doesn't get warm at all.

Like Recom R-78HB5.0
#33
Yes, but can't swear on that it will fix it =)
#34
New caps and maybe a pot tweak on laser...

How's the gear?
#35
There's usually no problem exchanging the case
#36
PS1 games usually have CD Audio tracks and the first being DATA so jump a few tracks.
#37
Right, but I usually don't sell loose amps, I leave that up to Mickris, but if it was in a cable it was definitely me, unless it was for N64.

Then there's LAB23 and Got2Pair.
#38
Best to cut the trace on ifu pcb and take it from DC input directly.

RCA it is, otherwise only hucard sounds would be stereo and ADPCM and CDDA would be in mono.

You do know where in the world I am right?
#40
Rereading that then there might be no connection between pin 20,27 and that big red area, the DC plugs traces is rather big but the ones from the CD connector is rather thin, and might burn off quite easily either in the via or the trace that it leads to on the other side hidden under the connector, a wire (like Wolfmans blue line) should fix that right up, test beep if there's any connection between pin 20,27 and that big area.
#42
Both of those voltages should have worked.

It doesn't need any of the data lines to work standalone in the IFU, so it's either not getting power or ground, we should note that there is a few components in the CD-ROM2 also, it's like a diod, since it's comes from both the DC socket and the CD connector, and it goes into one just being separated with a diod, maybe something more, wolfman on the forum had some trouble with that 2-3 years ago and we checked everything around that back then. So it might work with the DC power but not the the CD connector.....
#43
This is since the CD-ROM2 is standalone and works on PC8801 and has its own 7805 regulator therefor it's getting higher voltage separated from the rest of the IFU.

Never measured TR101 but I guess it's goes directly to the power input and delivers 9-10v to the CD-ROM2 connector, nearly acting like a surge protection from the incoming power on the IFU towards the CD part.
#44
TR101 was the regulator for CD part, right behind the 7805 that has the heatsink on it.

http://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/IFU-30/IFU-30%20Components.txt
#45
Does the CD-ROM2 power on when in the IFU?

The PCE part and the CD part have different power regulators, So hucards can load up great while the CD doesn't even lit up.

In that case IC118 comes to mind, then there's another one that's has resistor controlled voltage output http://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/IFU-30/IFU-30%20Main%20Board%20PCB.jpg
#46
That could just be rosin flux, most in there is lead/tin plated copper meaning it will be green when corroded.

Sometimes when things hit the floor, like when stepping on the cable, there are extreme flex on the board leaving bigger circuits (SMD/SMT) to get loose in their pins (legs), it might look good to the untrained eye but it's not really soldered, going over everything with a microscope might be needed or even resoldering everything just to be sure.
#47
Bad connection to hucard = white screen (sometimes if you flip the power on and off rapidly it shows green or purple, or some other weird color), same if you have no card in it.

Most other faults also shows white screen...

Black.... and no sound... hmm, could be everything from small nearly undetectable cracks in the board, even under one of the three main circuits to it's not getting power at all, getting 5v out of the 7805? around 4.995 not 4v or 6v.

Worn out cables between slot and mainboard gives white screen also.
#48
And as I always say, there are no discussion about the differences in quality of the different pressing plants or microscopic scratches on pressed discs that causes "stress" to the laser...

A good CD-R burned at low speed is always better then a pressed one made in a cheap dirty pressing plant or a pressed one with microscopic scrathes.....

Some even clean their new cd's in a ultrasonic cleaner to get rid of that bivax (beeswax)
that are on cd's from factory so that they don't stick to each other when stacked and being
sent around the plant at ultra high speed.. there's seldom any discussion about that "optical distortion" other then in nerdy hifi circles.

Then there are those who buys original and burns it and put their original in their vault never playing the "original"...

So I'll go with Null and say Burn'n Play, everything causes "stress" to the laser anyhow.

And about 650mb vs 700mb, there should be no differences, it only uses the amount it needs, the track density is the same it just goes further out on 700mb and if the hardware doesn't support it then it doesn't go there, there's even 800-900mb cd's now, and does PCE games go over 650mb?

But 1x is the best, 2x should be fine but most modern burners do go lower then 16x, some 10x, ImgBurn seems to be the best program.
#49
There are 3 different sounds inside a Duo, first we have Hu-Card sounds that are either simple bleeps or blops and simple digitized audio, then for CD gaming we have the array of Hu-Card sounds + ADPCM, advanced (for the time) digitized audio (voice/wave synthesizer) + CD-AUDIO.

So, are you missing Hu-Card sounds even when using CD? might be a 4558 OP Amp just popped for the huey sounds, or moisture took a bite on a via powering one...
#50
Probably not all caps were changed, a few years back it was popular to only change the video caps...

Besides that maybe electrolyte hasn't been cleaned and makes interference on the PCB and vias that has leaked from the old caps, even if they were exchanged it's still there until it's cleaned once and for all.