12/23/2024: Localization News - Team Innocent

PC-FX Localization for Team Innocent is released, a pre-Christmas gift!! In a twist, it feels like the NEC PC-FX got more attention in 2024 than any other time I can remember! Caveat: The localizers consider the "v0.9" patch a BETA as it still faces technical hurdles to eventually subtitle the FMV scenes, but they consider it very much playable.
github.com/TeamInnocent-EnglishPatchPCFX
x.com/DerekPascarella/PCFXNews
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Messages - LaC

#1
Quote from: Keith Courage on 05/06/2017, 02:48 PMare you talking about the very top left 4.7 capacitor in the picture there? If so, the negative pad goes to the solder point on the part just directly below it. so the trace itself goes straight down. shine a light through the rear of the board. You should be able to see it.
Ok thank you!
I was looking at that spot with a flashlight before and couldn't see a trace...  I guess the trace was corroded off or came up with the solder pad.  I can definitely see a line where the trace must've been.
#2
While recapping a Turbo Express one of the solder pads came off. It was completely corroded and just fell off.
So I need to create a via that goes to wherever this pad goes to.
The odd thing is that I can't figure out where the solder pad goes to. I don't see any traces that go to the actual pad.
It's CC501 as seen in the pic (very top, red colored), and the negative side of the cap.
Maybe it's suppose to go to ground? I am not sure. Hopefully someone with a turbo express can open theirs and use a multi-meter to check where to make a via to. :) thanks!

IMG
#3
So I noticed my PCE Duo seems to be loading cd games really slowly.  Especially after trying the same games on a regular working Turbo CD drive and noticing how much faster it is.
The games always end up loading and playing fine though.  It's just really really slow to load.
A few months back I bought this unit off ebay mentioning it had already been recapped.  And indeed it has new caps in it.
Is this possibly a laser issue?
#4
Are you saying I should get in there with a magnifying glass and check every joint? sounds like fun. though, not sure if i'd be able to tell good from bad at that scale.


Quote from: Tatsujin on 04/22/2014, 11:24 PM
Quote from: LaC on 04/22/2014, 09:44 PM
Quote from: Tatsujin on 04/22/2014, 08:14 PMdo you use an original PSU? or what rate does it have?

but even if the 7805 overheats a bit, it still should regulate the 5V voltage just fine.

maybe something completely different? like dirty contacts, or some cold/broken solder points in the inside, which can cause such phenomenons when the system warms up a bit etc. how do other games react?
I'll check the voltage on the 7805. And maybe just replace it to see what happens.
I've had other games lock up too.
I use the sega genesis model1 power supply.

I should probably look for cold/broken solder joints around the heat sink? Nothing else feels hot to the touch. The heat sink and power switch sure do get decently hot though.
I was more thinking of cold solder joints around the data lines/conducting paths etc. which might crash a game when not making properly contacts.
#5
Ok so I don't think this is a heat thing. I just turned it on cold and it locked up with the same type of graphic distortions in Air Zonk. 
Also more info... This is using an Everdrive. (This is not my system, trying to fix it for someone).
I turned it off, and reinserted the Everdrive, and now it worked up until the end of Level 1, then crash.



Quote from: LaC on 04/22/2014, 10:01 PMIt does have an RGB amp installed. Very similar to the one talked about here -> http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?45483-What-s-currently-the-best-RGB-mod-for-the-PC-Engine

There are power decoupling caps (0.1uf+220uf) in parallel on VCC->gnd on the amp itself. And 0.1uf+200uf on the 6260, pin 41 and pin 43 both, to ground.


Quote from: thesteve on 04/22/2014, 09:54 PMmine has an issue with 1 game card when hot
but its when the game is hot, not the system
game fine other systems
system fine other games
#6
It does have an RGB amp installed. Very similar to the one talked about here -> http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?45483-What-s-currently-the-best-RGB-mod-for-the-PC-Engine

There are power decoupling caps (0.1uf+220uf) in parallel on VCC->gnd on the amp itself. And 0.1uf+200uf on the 6260, pin 41 and pin 43 both, to ground.


Quote from: thesteve on 04/22/2014, 09:54 PMmine has an issue with 1 game card when hot
but its when the game is hot, not the system
game fine other systems
system fine other games
#7
Quote from: Bernie on 04/22/2014, 09:46 PMId go with an original power supply first.
Don't have one. I thought the voltage from a gen model1 was well within tolerance...
Is there a known issue with them?
#8
Quote from: Tatsujin on 04/22/2014, 08:14 PMdo you use an original PSU? or what rate does it have?

but even if the 7805 overheats a bit, it still should regulate the 5V voltage just fine.

maybe something completely different? like dirty contacts, or some cold/broken solder points in the inside, which can cause such phenomenons when the system warms up a bit etc. how do other games react?
I'll check the voltage on the 7805. And maybe just replace it to see what happens.
I've had other games lock up too.
I use the sega genesis model1 power supply.

I should probably look for cold/broken solder joints around the heat sink? Nothing else feels hot to the touch. The heat sink and power switch sure do get decently hot though.
#9
I have a Core Grafx that appears to lock up due to over heating.
If I play Soldier Blade for like 15 minutes and then go and try to play Air Zonk, Air Zonk will lock up with garbled graphics almost immediately.  Sometimes the music will continue.
If I then let the system cool down for a bit, Air Zonk will play fine. Eventually locking up much later.
I had problems with other systems before (sega cd, 32x), and a full cap replacement fixed it.

Is this at all common?
I was wondering if there are any other things I should be checking/replacing that could be causing this? I was thinking maybe the 7805 regulator too.
#10
Quote from: LaC on 06/02/2013, 01:53 PMThe PVM-2950Q doesn't accept composite as sync.  I always have my consoles output raw sync.   When I try the tg16 with composite as sync I just get a black screen.
I do have a PVM-2030, which likes composite as sync. I'll have to give that a try to see if I get the same problems.
The brightness of the screenshot is just the exposure settings on the camera.
Yeah, tried my PVM-2030. I don't get any problems there both with regular composite as sync and the output from the lm1881n.
#11
The PVM-2950Q doesn't accept composite as sync.  I always have my consoles output raw sync.   When I try the tg16 with composite as sync I just get a black screen.
I do have a PVM-2030, which likes composite as sync. I'll have to give that a try to see if I get the same problems.
The brightness of the screenshot is just the exposure settings on the camera.
#12
I recently RGB modded my TG16.
I used the RGB amp here -> http://www.gamesx.com/grafx/pce_rgb.jpg
pce_rgb.jpg

I tried to hook it up to my Sony PVM 2950Q with the amped pure sync as in the diagram.  However, it would not sync properly.  So I switched the sync part of the amp to just use an lm1881n instead and fed it composite and extracted the sync from that. That gave me a fairly nice synced image.
However, there is one annoying problem, there is color bleeding like seen below.
Anyone know what would cause this?

IMG