REPAIR GUIDE - TurboDuo: Sound Fix

[Nazi NecroPhile]

just an FYI - I have a hunch someone is trying to make money off this guide. Oh well I guess everyone tries to cash in on ebay. 

L@@K!!1!  R@RE!11!!!  It's called 'Caps Lock' ya fucktard, learn to turn it off. 

What a douche, but at least she's an honest douche and admits that she didn't create the guide.

[Platinumfungi]

I'd be interested to see if they have pictures/info of ours taken from here at PCFX...

To my knowledge this site is the best compilation of information about these issues.

[Duo_R]

My thoughts exactly. I meant to post this in the Turbo Express post but oh well.

ftp://

I'd be interested to see if they have pictures/info of ours taken from here at PCFX...

To my knowledge this site is the best compilation of information about these issues.

[PCEngineFX]

I have made this topic sticky, as well as changed the thread title for better classification.

[Duo_R]

so today I booted up my old US Duo (who has been not getting much attention since the Duo-R arrived last year). The audio as I stated was lowered after my fix, but no more scratchiness / fading in and out of audio. I played Ys III last night and noticed something - when the characters talk (recorded speach) I do not hear anything. I hear the soundtrack playing, but cannot hear the characters talk at all! Now I am baffled.....

[Nazi NecroPhile]

Now I am baffled.....

No ADPCM, eh?  Awack had that problem before; the consensus was that a chip had failed.  I'd check with him to see if a chip transplant solved the problem and if he can give you any tips.

[Duo_R]

well I replaced the chip with another one from a Duo that was working fine. Didn't fix the problem unfortunately.....man this US Duo is just so damn stubborn! Nice clean audio but no ADPCM.

[Duo_R]

I did a swap from a US Duo to a JP Duo with the M5205 chip. Both systems retained the same behavior (US Duo no ADPCM, JP Duo has ADPCM but fading audio). The JP Duo hasn't had a cap swap yet so that is why the fading audio is there. As I stated both systems behaved exactly the same. So I am beginning to suspect another part. What about the other IC's near this area? I know one of them is the opamp, what os the IC between Opamp and the M5205 chip? It is directly above the voltage regulators, long skinny IC.

[Duo_R]

no thoughts? Does anyone think a tech doc is floating around somewhere on the Duo systems? I replaced the M5205 and still ADPCM issues.....when I have time I will swap more IC's but I would rather not shotgun this system (well I already replaced EVERY capacitor practically). Perfect sound now, no ADPCM.

Also - how important is ADPCM in most CD games? Does this just render it kinda useless for RPG's with voice acting?

[Fakk2]

I am also having this issue with sound crackle only mine is with my PC Engine PAC for the LaserActive. I replaced one of the capacitors as mentioned for the Duo and the crackle sound has stopped, but now I have no sound fx or ADPCM sound coming from the left speaker at all, but the CD audio works perfectly for both speakers. I can't believe my PAC is affected by this issue. I seriously don't wanna ruin my PC Engine PAC by ripping traces prying off these caps and replacing them as the PC Engine PAC is rare and expensive. Anyone know of Pioneer repair shops that fix these things?

[override]

Hey D-Lite,

I just ordered a duo that is having the sound problem (ADPCM going out) that you are describing off of ebay?! I placed a bid at the last minute and got it for $72.00....I bid because it was cheap and I figured it could be fixed easily!

The question I have is shown in your pics of the "old" and "new" caps the old ones circled in yellow have arrows pointing to the left and right caps. The pics of the "new" caps show that you only replaced the left side.....Is that because you only needed to replace the left side or were you just showing an example with the left side before you did the right side?

[Nazi NecroPhile]

Hey D-Lite,

I just ordered a duo that is having the sound problem (ADPCM going out) that you are describing off of ebay?! I placed a bid at the last minute and got it for $72.00....I bid because it was cheap and I figured it could be fixed easily!

The question I have is shown in your pics of the "old" and "new" caps the old ones circled in yellow have arrows pointing to the left and right caps. The pics of the "new" caps show that you only replaced the left side.....Is that because you only needed to replace the left side or were you just showing an example with the left side before you did the right side?

You won't get an answer from D-Lite - he's not around here any longer.  D-Lite's problem was redbook related, not ADPCM, so this specific instance wouldn't have helped much anyway.  My advice is to visit this thread for one possible culprit and check the Total Capacitor Replacement Repair Guide for all the caps and just do 'em all.  It's better to fix everything now than go crazy later trying to track down which cap is still causing problems.

[override]

Well poop I didnt know he wasnt around.....BUT Thanks for refering me to those other 2 forums ! I had seen the one for the cap replacements but I didnt know of the other one for the sound problem that I do infact have.... Thanks for the help though! Everyone here has been super friendly so far! Im glad I joined the forum!

[Fakk2]

Well, since nobody can help me here I decided to go ahead and do it myself. I ordered a ton of capacitors from allelectronics.com and when they got here yesterday I went ahead and shotgunned the PC Engine PAC and replaced every cap that I could (some have strange info on them so I don't know what they are so I could not do all of them), but to no surprise I have the same problem still. No ADPCM or Sound FX from the left channel. It did however make the sound fx and ADPCM sound from the right channel crystal clear and loud again. So I guess it was not a total waste of time. But I still cannot hear any sound fx or ADPCM from the left channel...any ideas? please help!

[Nazi NecroPhile]

...replaced every cap that I could (some have strange info on them so I don't know what they are so I could not do all of them)...

This probably isn't what you want to hear, but it might be one of the unidentified caps.  Sorry I can't be on any real assistance. 

[Fakk2]

...replaced every cap that I could (some have strange info on them so I don't know what they are so I could not do all of them)...

This probably isn't what you want to hear, but it might be one of the unidentified caps.  Sorry I can't be on any real assistance. 

If I took pics of the thing can you guys help me then? I mean, I know the PC Engine PAC is rare as hell and nobody has one, but still it is very much like a regular turbo duo just smaller, so there should be ways to repair this unit. I dont care if I must replace every cap on the unit, (theres not many left to replace) I just need to know the values of the caps to buy some new ones. They have weird values on them for example...the ones that read 10  and 16v... were replaced with 10uf caps at 16volts each. The cap that said 47 16s was replaced with a 47uf cap at 16volts..  which should be fine but then I have a TON more with 100  6s on them (Im guessing its 100uf at 6volts?)  and a bunch more with 22  6s  37c on them  which I can only guess would be 22uf at 6 volts?  any ideas?  Anyone here with a LaserActive system that can repair this for me???

[Charlie]

General notes-
C301, 307, 308 are raw power supply filtering. 

For CD audio (sourced at U103 PCM decoder), start at U201 (DAC), come out stereo to U202 filter (caps C205,C206 significant here),through U203 amp/filter, through U504 audio gate, into U505 (caps c617,c618).  Out U505 (through caps c613,c614  -- also, c616 sets frequency response) to U506, out U506 (caps c604,c610) to AV output connector.  Same signal also fed to U507 amp/filter (through caps c670, c671), then output (via c678, c679) to headphone connector.  U507 also uses caps c675 and c676 to set its filter operation. 

For game audio (sourced by U901), come out stereo through caps c878 and c879 into U506, continue as above. 

For ADCPM audio (sourced by U502), come out mono through cap c652 to passive filter (uses c623), to one-half of U503 amp  , out U503 (cap 653) through passive filter (uses c621) to other-half of U503, into U504 audio gate (both channels), continue as above.

C526 is the VCC cap for U515, the 512K ROM.

C323 is regulated power filtering.

Somebody should start tracking this stuff in one of the "sticky" posts, maybe as a table of what cap does what.

Good luck.

Charlie

[Duo_R]

wow Charlie, at 3 posts you sure have a lot of information on the Duo. Did you just trace this yourself?

General notes-
C301, 307, 308 are raw power supply filtering. 

For CD audio (sourced at U103 PCM decoder), start at U201 (DAC), come out stereo to U202 filter (caps C205,C206 significant here),through U203 amp/filter, through U504 audio gate, into U505 (caps c617,c618).  Out U505 (through caps c613,c614  -- also, c616 sets frequency response) to U506, out U506 (caps c604,c610) to AV output connector.  Same signal also fed to U507 amp/filter (through caps c670, c671), then output (via c678, c679) to headphone connector.  U507 also uses caps c675 and c676 to set its filter operation. 

For game audio (sourced by U901), come out stereo through caps c878 and c879 into U506, continue as above. 

For ADCPM audio (sourced by U502), come out mono through cap c652 to passive filter (uses c623), to one-half of U503 amp  , out U503 (cap 653) through passive filter (uses c621) to other-half of U503, into U504 audio gate (both channels), continue as above.

C526 is the VCC cap for U515, the 512K ROM.

C323 is regulated power filtering.

Somebody should start tracking this stuff in one of the "sticky" posts, maybe as a table of what cap does what.

Good luck.

Charlie

[Fakk2]

General notes-
C301, 307, 308 are raw power supply filtering. 

For CD audio (sourced at U103 PCM decoder), start at U201 (DAC), come out stereo to U202 filter (caps C205,C206 significant here),through U203 amp/filter, through U504 audio gate, into U505 (caps c617,c618).  Out U505 (through caps c613,c614  -- also, c616 sets frequency response) to U506, out U506 (caps c604,c610) to AV output connector.  Same signal also fed to U507 amp/filter (through caps c670, c671), then output (via c678, c679) to headphone connector.  U507 also uses caps c675 and c676 to set its filter operation. 

For game audio (sourced by U901), come out stereo through caps c878 and c879 into U506, continue as above. 

For ADCPM audio (sourced by U502), come out mono through cap c652 to passive filter (uses c623), to one-half of U503 amp  , out U503 (cap 653) through passive filter (uses c621) to other-half of U503, into U504 audio gate (both channels), continue as above.

C526 is the VCC cap for U515, the 512K ROM.

C323 is regulated power filtering.

Somebody should start tracking this stuff in one of the "sticky" posts, maybe as a table of what cap does what.

Good luck.

Charlie

So this information is good for Turbo Duo users only or what? I cant find the caps you listed at all in my PC Engine PAC.

[nat]

If you're speaking of the LaserActive PCE pack, then yeah, it's highly unlikely that any information contained herein is going to pertain to anything you find in the LA pack.

[Charlie]

Reference to the Volume Control VR601:

It's connected between C604/C610 and C671/C670 (stereo, of course).  Interestingly enough, instead of the typical connection whereby the audio is the source and the volume control acts as a pot to select some fraction of that audio, in this case the volume control is connected as a "short" across the audio line.  At zero volume, it actually "grounds out" the audio.

Charlie

[Mobius]

I just wanted to say thanks to everyone in this and the various other sound fix/cap replacement threads.  Not because it resolved a sound issue in my Duo, but because it helped me solve something completely unrelated.  Several months ago, I bought a CD32 off of ebay, but the controller was all wonky.  The seller sent me a new one, but the second one started doing the same weird stuff after about an hour of use.

I opened the controllers up to take a look.  I saw a capacitor on the board, and remembering what I had read in these threads about bad capacitors from the early 90s, figured it was worth a shot to replace it.  After all, I had nothing else to go on, and another controller would probably run me something like $40!

Sure enough, it's good as new!  Now I can finally enjoy my CD32 and not have it be a total waste of money.

(And as a side note, the guy at Radio Shack assured me a 47uF/35V cap would be a suitable replacement for a 47uF/10V cap, but that was totally wrong.  Stick with the same ratings!)

[nat]

(And as a side note, the guy at Radio Shack assured me a 47uF/35V cap would be a suitable replacement for a 47uF/10V cap, but that was totally wrong.  Stick with the same ratings!)

Actually, that is totally right. The voltage rating on capacitors is simply an indication of how much voltage the capacitor is rated for. As in, it can withstand up to whatever the voltage rating says. If a 47uF/35V cap didn't work in place of a 47uF/10V cap, it was just a fluke (you probably had a bad cap). You could put a 47uF/999999999999V cap in there (if such a thing existed) and it would behave exactly the same as the 10V because the console is still only supplying the same amount of voltage to it.

[Mobius]

(And as a side note, the guy at Radio Shack assured me a 47uF/35V cap would be a suitable replacement for a 47uF/10V cap, but that was totally wrong.  Stick with the same ratings!)

Actually, that is totally right. The voltage rating on capacitors is simply an indication of how much voltage the capacitor is rated for. As in, it can withstand up to whatever the voltage rating says. If a 47uF/35V cap didn't work in place of a 47uF/10V cap, it was just a fluke (you probably had a bad cap). You could put a 47uF/999999999999V cap in there (if such a thing existed) and it would behave exactly the same as the 10V because the console is still only supplying the same amount of voltage to it.

Huh, weird... Guess it was a fluke, then.  It definitely didn't work.

[agt_dale_cooper]

Interesting....Charlie is my new hero.  [Not to mention already my hero(es) from Military Madness ]
Haven't messed with this PCE Duo that had me resurrecting this thread for a LONG time, I've had other stuff to repair...
Now with a specific plan of attack/testing for the CD audio, I will drag the thing out of the box and trace through those specific points, looking for faults.  I've re-capped the thing twice, but that's not to say that my soldering is invincible...
I also enjoyed the commentary about the headphone jack shorting across the CD audio...fairly certain I tried headphones with the thing and came out with the same really faint audio, so I imagine the headphone jack is NOT at minimum setting....that would be a really stupid solution.
I'm interested to hear if Charlie's commentary prompts other folks with similar audio issues to mine (everything works EXCEPT Redbook from the CD drive, even after replacing laser pickup) to pick up their forgotten-due-to-excessive-irritation no-audio PCEs....

[override]

Interesting....Charlie is my new hero.  [Not to mention already my hero(es) from Military Madness ]
Haven't messed with this PCE Duo that had me resurrecting this thread for a LONG time, I've had other stuff to repair...
Now with a specific plan of attack/testing for the CD audio, I will drag the thing out of the box and trace through those specific points, looking for faults.  I've re-capped the thing twice, but that's not to say that my soldering is invincible...
I also enjoyed the commentary about the headphone jack shorting across the CD audio...fairly certain I tried headphones with the thing and came out with the same really faint audio, so I imagine the headphone jack is NOT at minimum setting....that would be a really stupid solution.
I'm interested to hear if Charlie's commentary prompts other folks with similar audio issues to mine (everything works EXCEPT Redbook from the CD drive, even after replacing laser pickup) to pick up their forgotten-due-to-excessive-irritation no-audio PCEs....

Hello,

Although you seem to know more or less what your doing which is most likely more I just figured I would throw this one out there even though its been posted on this thread before. Have you tried replacing the M51131L chip? or the M5205 18 Pin oki chip?

I had the sound issue and replaced a handfull of suspecting caps (ones that leaked) and it fixed the sound but since it has become faint, and when playing like lords of thunder when you shoot the sound makes a popping noise. I gotta pull it back apart and recheck it all again...Probably another cap leaked...Time to just replace all of em.

[Bludgeon]

Just noticed my Turbo Duo has that problem. When I play the hucard it has all the sound but when I play Ys 1&2 the background music only plays. Kinda strange when I play the disc in my laserdisc player I can hear all the soundtrack but to bad I dont own that laseractive player. One sweet machine and the price is just as sweet to.

[agt_dale_cooper]

FINALLY got around to this.

Assumptions:  If all the ICs are good for the CD audio circuit, then there are a limited number of failure points in terms of caps:  C205, 206 (bottom of board, surface/flat mount) and C617, 618 (top of board, surface/flat mount, to the right of IC505).  [Remaining caps in circuit is all stuff we replaced:  C613, 614, C616, C604 and C610.]

Questions:
1)  What the frell are proper readings for C617 and C618?  I broke out the working-CD audio USA unit, and it's readings (DC V 20m) behaved radically differently than the faint CD audio JAP unit.
2)  Assuming they're frelled, how do we replace?  Too frelling small to get a reading/part number off.
3)  What are C205, 206 supposed to read?  I'm less concerned about them than I am the ones on the top, but I'll ask.

Comments:  Haven't replaced the 5205...I don't see the point before insuring all other circuit components are in working order....
Also pulled the black cover off the lens to insure it wasn't one of the double-style ones where you have to clean the bottom lens too (fixed a recalcitrant SCPH-50001 PS2 by doing this yesterday....spinning the lens height gears (yes, the 50001 has two!) yielded results for DVD5 and CD, but not DVD9.  Took the cap off the lens, cleaned lower lens with my favorite 91%, works like a charm now.)

Thanks for any help, kids.....glad to see this got stickied so it's not me resurrecting the dead again 

[Charlie]

C617,C618 ,C205,C206= .22uf.  Anything 16V or more is ok.

Note that U505 has a CD mute function and a CD fade function on pin 8; check that also.


Charlie

PS: This is probably something else that should go into the "repair data encyclopedia".  (Is anyone actually keeping track of this stuff?  It would make it easier for a user, as compared to having to search all the various posts)

[Platinumfungi]

(Is anyone actually keeping track of this stuff?  It would make it easier for a user, as compared to having to search all the various posts)

I totally agree about recording any useful information. The stickied "REPAIR GUIDES" are actually a very newly implemented feature here and only became so after some requesting was put in the right direction. Anything that's complied into what seems like a nice guide can easily be stickied now 

I'm not sure if it would be the right place, but I'd be happy to update or alter my  "Duo Total Cap Replacement Chart" guide into something a little more like an archive of all the comprehensive repair data, part numbers, proper readings, etc for the Duo. I'd also be perfectly find with someone making some other thread to do so. I don't care who spearheads it, but, just like you, I want to make sure it's actually happening.

I just second the vote to record and archive all pertinent Duo info.

On a side note I made a topic in the hopes of doing the same premise for the often ailing Turbo CD/PCE CD. Hopefully it will one day be of some use to people as well.

[Charlie]

The replacement chart is the natural place for the cap data, of course.  But the overall technical data? 
Don't know.  And even if it is, the thread is very broken up on the various topics.  Probably need to combine all that data, and the various other tidbits found in some of the other threads, into some comprehensive and coherent data presentation.  Sort of like an on-line manual that contains sections for all console/peripherals? 

Charlie

[Platinumfungi]

The replacement chart is the natural place for the cap data, of course.  But the overall technical data? 
Don't know.  And even if it is, the thread is very broken up on the various topics.  Probably need to combine all that data, and the various other tidbits found in some of the other threads, into some comprehensive and coherent data presentation.  Sort of like an on-line manual that contains sections for all console/peripherals? 

Charlie

I like the sound of it, but I'm not sure what the best way is to organize / reorganize all of it. And I'm wondering if it's possible to do what you're thinking of (the online manual) here in the forums with the limitations of the forum design space or if it would need to be made with some other resources and then added/linked here.

Almost seems like you'd need to create webspace just for this to really lay it out nicely. Oh, that makes me question the idea of some Wiki type database? I know I've seen some various wiki spaces about different gaming repairs or mods before so just a thought there.

I'm all for helping out with whatever needs to be done for these. I've tried to help contribute what I can in the past and am definitely interested in continuing to do so 

[Charlie]

Hmmm, webspace not a problem.  Check out "www.racevb6.com".  Note the "guest" links.  We can just add another one (damn! wish I'd thought of that --I was so concentrated on keeping the scattered data intact it just slipped my mind.)

Generally, I'll say go ahead and make up some docs, send them to me (with the appropriate subject) at "charlie@racevb6.com" and I'll upload them.   But we should probably at least have a minimum idea of the format of the manual(s).  I'd like to get the data out of the narrative-type description/format and into a more formal technical-type description/format, with various graphics like "Picture #1" and the proper references in the text, etc.  And of course that means a fairly in-depth review of all the posts here that may contain applicable data.  Any tech-writer types out there?

Charlie

[agt_dale_cooper]

C617,C618 ,C205,C206= .22uf.  Anything 16V or more is ok.

Are these polarized?  Too small to tell which side is +, which is -.  [Parts Express:  .22uF, 50V:  http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=020-1622 .  Gonna throw a buck at this, see what happens...]

Note that U505 has a CD mute function and a CD fade function on pin 8; check that also.

Mute would shut it completely off, right?  Not just way down like we're experiencing...?  If not, perhaps this is the bug....?

[milkmanv1]

Oh man, I'm so happy this is such an easy fix, just replace 2 caps. I just got a US duo, and I thought I noticed some scratchy, not too loud sound. I went to play some bravoman today (BRAVO!) and it was REAL bad, so me and my dad will (CAREFULLY!) pop open my Duo, and give her a fix. Thanks so much D-Lite

[override]

Oh man, I'm so happy this is such an easy fix, just replace 2 caps. I just got a US duo, and I thought I noticed some scratchy, not too loud sound. I went to play some bravoman today (BRAVO!) and it was REAL bad, so me and my dad will (CAREFULLY!) pop open my Duo, and give her a fix. Thanks so much D-Lite

While your in there you may as well replace all the caps! You can order them at newark.com for about $12....

[milkmanv1]

Hmm I was going more for a quick fix... I mean It wouldnt hurt to redo all of em, but I figured i'd just replace as the problems go, "If it aint broke dont fix it?"

[Charlie]

Those caps are not polarized.

Yes, the mute would turn it off, but the fade may keep it low.  The fade effect occurs by simply switching from high-volume, to mid-volume, to zero-volume.  So, maybe it's stuck at mid-volume.

By the way, there is an "anti-thump" circuit as well; it's another, albeit remote, possibility.

Charlie

[override]

Hmm I was going more for a quick fix... I mean It wouldnt hurt to redo all of em, but I figured i'd just replace as the problems go, "If it aint broke dont fix it?"

Your right in most cases dont fix it if it aint broken.....BUT the problem hear in lies that the cause of the capacitors leaking is generally from heat and the fact that shitty caps were used at the time of building these extravegant machines! Everytime a cap leaks you get electrolytic/acidic juice from the caps on the PCB which there in can eat traces away and cause chip damage which will most likely eventually cause your sound to totaly fail and it will be a bitch to get back if you even get it back....

With this in mind and seeing it be an actual problem with "my system" I would say replace them all why you got it apart....its not that hard to do and maybe would take you about 2.5 hrs of pulling all the caps, desoldering them, cleaning the PCB and then resoldering!

If anything you could alway get a member such as myself, redghost, duo-r, etc. members on the board to do a cap replacement for you....Also be carefull not to lift any pads! Any caps that leak will have a higher chance of the pads lifting which can cause more problems than needed!

[Charlie]

Listen to Override; replace all caps.

Charlie

[milkmanv1]

Hmm... I have a quick question, is it possible for a Hucard to be messed up? I havn't really noticed any fuzzy sound on any game other then bravo man that ONE time. I got bonks adventure today, played through the whole game, and since it was my first runthrough it took a while...so. My question is it possible for a HuCard to messed up?

[override]

Hmm... I have a quick question, is it possible for a Hucard to be messed up? I havn't really noticed any fuzzy sound on any game other then bravo man that ONE time. I got bonks adventure today, played through the whole game, and since it was my first runthrough it took a while...so. My question is it possible for a HuCard to messed up?

It is possible for hucards to go dead...I dont know about haveing sound issues but im sure its possible!

[milkmanv1]

If the sound starts to act up at all again, I'll get right on replacing those caps, but since it was such an isolated incident i'll wait a bit, and see if anything else happens.

[Fakk2]

Is there anyone in here that can replace all the caps in my PC Engine PAC? I already did the majority of them, but got no results at all from changing them. I am willing to pay a lil to get the rest of them swapped out with new ones if that will fix my sound issue I am having. I live in California. Please someone PM me and let me know. I am tired of owning a faulty PC Engine PAC, and want to see it work again someday. The only problem it is having is it had staticy sound coming from the left speaker during games. After changing out a ton of caps it now has no sound fx coming from the left speaker even though music works fine.

[Fakk2]

I'm still looking for someone that lives in California that can change out the remaining caps and fix my PC Engine PAC. I am dying to get this working. Please respond.

[override]

Is there anyone in here that can replace all the caps in my PC Engine PAC? I already did the majority of them, but got no results at all from changing them. I am willing to pay a lil to get the rest of them swapped out with new ones if that will fix my sound issue I am having. I live in California. Please someone PM me and let me know. I am tired of owning a faulty PC Engine PAC, and want to see it work again someday. The only problem it is having is it had staticy sound coming from the left speaker during games. After changing out a ton of caps it now has no sound fx coming from the left speaker even though music works fine.

Since you have replaced caps you must know how to solder, replace ALL the caps, and test. If you still dont get anywhere then replace the sound balance chips, M5205OKI and M51131L chips. I can PM you a link to buy both chips if you want. If that doesnt fix the sound start replacing OP amps...If you get anysound whatsoever from the left speaker and it fades after a few seconds or minutes of play you can buy some freeze spray from like Radioshack and when the sound dies start squirting the amps and stuff, if one is getting to hot and causing it to die then you will figure out the bad chips.

I wish I could help more....If you ever decide you want to ship the sucker to me lemme know!

[Duo_R]

links to where someone could buy the M chips and the Op amps would be awesome!

[override]

links to where someone could buy the M chips and the Op amps would be awesome!

Sup Duo-R! Long time no talk....Glad to see you back on the forums even if only for a quick question.

I searched high and low for these buggers and believe it or not I found them as single buys on ebay! There were two sellers that carried them: honestcard and littlediode_usa. honestcard seems to have fallen off the face of the earth and who knows if he will find his way back, his M5205 OKI chip was much cheaper than littlediode's but for any matter if you think about it, the fact that you can just buy what you need is nice instead of having to buy a huge bundle of stuff from like digikey.

The M5205 OKI - HERE!

The M51131L - HERE!

and The BA6290A (I recently discovered these two chips are to blame for the cd player not working, I have started a guide already) - HERE!

Oh yeah almost forgot, the op-amps....The op amps in the duo are general purpose 4558 op amps such as this. Any should work!

littlediode is a nice guy, I gave him a whole list of chips from the duo to find out if he could get them and he returned maximum results, if I remember right he could get all of them except the special hu's ofcourse, and the system card chips. Sometimes he takes awhile to respond to questions but he will usually get you a datasheet if you need one and what not! Also he has given me some decent deals on the make an offer button! The last time I ordered I got $6 off what I would have paid! Hope this tid bit of info helps!

Good to see ya again duo....

[Duo_R]

Thanks override, I appreicate the info. I have seen the M chips on ebay, although I thought they were somewhat pricey (I haven't checked your links yet). Anyone have thoughts on the lack of ADPCM? What should be replaced first to fix that?

Duo

links to where someone could buy the M chips and the Op amps would be awesome!

Sup Duo-R! Long time no talk....Glad to see you back on the forums even if only for a quick question.

I searched high and low for these buggers and believe it or not I found them as single buys on ebay! There were two sellers that carried them: honestcard and littlediode_usa. honestcard seems to have fallen off the face of the earth and who knows if he will find his way back, his M5205 OKI chip was much cheaper than littlediode's but for any matter if you think about it, the fact that you can just buy what you need is nice instead of having to buy a huge bundle of stuff from like digikey.

The M5205 OKI - HERE!

The M51131L - HERE!

and The BA6290A (I recently discovered these two chips are to blame for the cd player not working, I have started a guide already) - HERE!

Oh yeah almost forgot, the op-amps....The op amps in the duo are general purpose 4558 op amps such as this. Any should work!

littlediode is a nice guy, I gave him a whole list of chips from the duo to find out if he could get them and he returned maximum results, if I remember right he could get all of them except the special hu's ofcourse, and the system card chips. Sometimes he takes awhile to respond to questions but he will usually get you a datasheet if you need one and what not! Also he has given me some decent deals on the make an offer button! The last time I ordered I got $6 off what I would have paid! Hope this tid bit of info helps!

Good to see ya again duo....

[override]

Thanks override, I appreicate the info. I have seen the M chips on ebay, although I thought they were somewhat pricey (I haven't checked your links yet). Anyone have thoughts on the lack of ADPCM? What should be replaced first to fix that?

Duo

links to where someone could buy the M chips and the Op amps would be awesome!

Sup Duo-R! Long time no talk....Glad to see you back on the forums even if only for a quick question.

I searched high and low for these buggers and believe it or not I found them as single buys on ebay! There were two sellers that carried them: honestcard and littlediode_usa. honestcard seems to have fallen off the face of the earth and who knows if he will find his way back, his M5205 OKI chip was much cheaper than littlediode's but for any matter if you think about it, the fact that you can just buy what you need is nice instead of having to buy a huge bundle of stuff from like digikey.

The M5205 OKI - HERE!

The M51131L - HERE!

and The BA6290A (I recently discovered these two chips are to blame for the cd player not working, I have started a guide already) - HERE!

Oh yeah almost forgot, the op-amps....The op amps in the duo are general purpose 4558 op amps such as this. Any should work!

littlediode is a nice guy, I gave him a whole list of chips from the duo to find out if he could get them and he returned maximum results, if I remember right he could get all of them except the special hu's ofcourse, and the system card chips. Sometimes he takes awhile to respond to questions but he will usually get you a datasheet if you need one and what not! Also he has given me some decent deals on the make an offer button! The last time I ordered I got $6 off what I would have paid! Hope this tid bit of info helps!

Good to see ya again duo....

The lack of ADPCM is caused more likely by the M5205 OKI chip, its the ADPCM processor/Balance Chip. The M41464-10 OKI chips (x2) are the memory storage for adpcm. I assume such as when you sound dies and you still hear the gun shooting or a bomb explode in game thats why, its stores some data in those ram chips. Next would be the sound balance chip M51131L. The next in line would be the two 4558 op-amps, to the left of the RED molex connector for the cd player, if memory serves me correct those follow the M5205 OKI! Then i believe from there is goes onto the back side of the board. I can get more info if ya need it. I have a datasheet for the M5205 OKI but its PDF format so I cant upload it in photobucket. Ill send it to you via Email Duo_R! Times short so gotta go.