White PC Engine should be white

Deletion · 07/29/2012, 06:55 PM

Had great success whitening my PC Engine, CD-ROM² and IFU-30. I went with Arkhan's method of using just hydrogen peroxide and light instead of the various Retr0bright recipes. And I used artificial light instead of natural sunlight because I wanted a more controlled environment. First I made trips to my neighborhood pet supply, beauty supply and dollar stores and came home with a canopy light fixture (normally used atop reptile terrariums), UVB bulbs, many bottles of hydrogen peroxide, and various plastic food and storage containers. Here's a rundown.

MATERIALS:

Exo Terra Compact Top Terrarium Canopy, 17.7 x 3.5 x 7.8-inch, Max 26W spiral, Max 25W tube, PT-2226
2x Exo Terra Repti Glo Tropical Terrarium Lamp, 5.0 UVB Compact, 26W, PT-2187 (Power should be in the 300-350nm wavelength)
Salon Care 40 Volume Clear Developer 32 oz. (Hydrogen Peroxide)
Plastic food or storage containers
Rubber or latex gloves (hydrogen peroxide burns skin so these are a must)

Mmm, minty boxes

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BEFORE

The RAU-30, which is in its original super-bright white condition, is used as a point of comparison. I recorded the Serial Numbers and removed the stickers with Goo Gone. Then I disassembled and cleaned the consoles with dish washing liquid and an old electric toothbrush.

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SETUP

UVB bulbs installed in the light fixture.

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All of the plastic pieces float so I weighed them down with small rolls of pennies. The larger pieces had rolls of pennies taped to their undersides, while smaller pieces were taped to rolls of pennies. The pieces were completely submerged. The tape would come loose so I checked on the consoles periodically, dried the pieces, and re-applied tape as needed.

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The whitening process in action.

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These types of containers are perfect if you need to whiten the edges. NOTE: This photo was taken after the process. Make sure you don't see a DIN connector or power switch when you
pour in the hydrogen peroxide!

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AFTER

Neither the PC Engine nor the CD-ROM² came out as white as the RAU-30, but they look dramatically better.

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BEFORE

The Super System Card is quite yellowed and was not put through the process allowing you to see the change in color of the consoles quite clearly. The white tray of the IFU-30 was also whitened although it's not as easy to tell in these photos.

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AFTER - Much better

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Duo_R · 07/29/2012, 06:58 PM

huge improvement! Nice job!

Bernie · 07/29/2012, 07:17 PM

Damn that is a BIG improvement!!!!

PunkCryborg · 07/29/2012, 07:32 PM

looks fantastic, you can do mine next ;)

CPTRAVE · 07/29/2012, 07:36 PM

Wow that is great I wonder how long it will stay like that.

Samurai Ghost · 07/29/2012, 07:40 PM

Man, looks great!! Should have sent a bright white system card to match it, maybe I could swap it out for you?

Tatsujin · 07/29/2012, 08:05 PM

Quote from: CPTRAVE on 07/29/2012, 07:36 PMWow that is great I wonder how long it will stay like that.

I did one of my whities too several years ago, and it still is white as it just came out the box

altough I didn't use any of those UV equip. but some bleach stuff usually for cleaning the bath etc. it worked perfectly.

Kaijuboy · 07/29/2012, 08:42 PM

Impressive!

What about controllers though? Would you leave the little overlay sticker thing on? Or is it fairly easy to remove/reattach?

kazekirifx · 07/29/2012, 08:51 PM

Haha. Super System Card is still yellow...

I'm still looking for a yellow one. I'm willing to pay up to and including 500 yen for a loose one.
Right now I have a Core Grafx 1 hooked up to my yellow CD unit, which doesn't match since it's black and doesn't yellow at all.
Hooray for old yellowed systems!

Deletion · 07/29/2012, 09:56 PM

Quote from: Samurai Ghost on 07/29/2012, 07:40 PMMan, looks great!! Should have sent a bright white system card to match it, maybe I could swap it out for you?

That would be awesome, but not necessary. Or... perhaps the next time I purchase some turbob from you (and I'm sure I will), we can swing a deal

Deletion · 07/29/2012, 10:08 PM

Quote from: kazekirifx on 07/29/2012, 08:51 PMHaha. Super System Card is still yellow...

I was thinking of sealing that sliver of space between the bump-out and the Hucard with something like super glue. I may still try it, but I'm in no rush.

GohanX · 07/29/2012, 10:39 PM

Wow, that's fantastic! Especially the CD-ROM, since the old bleaching method doesn't work on those.

Samurai Ghost · 07/29/2012, 10:40 PM

Quote from: Deletion on 07/29/2012, 09:56 PM
Quote from: Samurai Ghost on 07/29/2012, 07:40 PMMan, looks great!! Should have sent a bright white system card to match it, maybe I could swap it out for you?
That would be awesome, but not necessary. Or... perhaps the next time I purchase some turbob from you (and I'm sure I will), we can swing a deal

Yeah I have a bright white System 3.0 card that should work fine. Should only cost a dollar or so to mail it so let me know if you want to swap it out so you have an even better looking system!!

Deletion · 07/29/2012, 11:27 PM

Quote from: Samurai Ghost on 07/29/2012, 10:40 PMYeah I have a bright white System 3.0 card that should work fine. Should only cost a dollar or so to mail it so let me know if you want to swap it out so you have an even better looking system!!

Samurai Ghost, you are awesome. I cannot decline your generous offer and will send you an email.

Frank_fjs · 07/29/2012, 11:35 PM

Fantastic write-up & result!

Thanks for sharing.

turbokon · 07/30/2012, 12:17 AM

Awesome result!! Thanks to Arkhan for simple rescipe!

Quote from: Kaijuboy on 07/29/2012, 08:42 PMImpressive! What about controllers though? Would you leave the little overlay sticker thing on? Or is it fairly easy to remove/reattach?

Hey Kaijiboy, I did this myself not to long ago. I left the overlay on the controllers and it turns out just fine.

Deletion · 07/30/2012, 12:29 AM

Good to know, turbokon. I would lean towards leaving the overlay on as well as the hydrogen peroxide did not appear to affect strong adhesives. The two small felt pads that the CD-ROM lid rests on when in the closed position stood up fine and remained in place.

SignOfZeta · 07/30/2012, 12:44 AM

Please get back with us in a year to let us know how it looks then. Mine re-yellowed quite a bit.

Samurai Ghost · 07/30/2012, 01:49 AM

Quote from: Deletion on 07/30/2012, 12:29 AMGood to know, turbokon. I would lean towards leaving the overlay on as well as the hydrogen peroxide did not appear to affect strong adhesives. The two small felt pads that the CD-ROM lid rests on when in the closed position stood up fine and remained in place.

It's good to know the process worked on the CDROM2 unit as well. I had heard the plastics are different and it doesn't work the same way, but yours seemed to have gotten quite a bit whiter.

Drakon · 07/30/2012, 06:26 AM

Wow that's excellent this thread should be in the repair section. You're all going to call me crazy but I think the white pce and cd drive look better when they're yellowed.

esadajr · 07/30/2012, 11:48 AM

Great job dude.

RegalSin · 07/30/2012, 12:02 PM

I don't know, about doing that to my PCE unit. The PCE logo looks faded, along with the CD-rom logo which is swiped off a bit. It is not yellow but it is not white either. If I did that, I think the print on the system would fade away, as well.

I am just looking at the pictures, in comparison. That looks godlike compared to my PCE unit. I am just glad I can still play cds after leaving the cd running for more then three days straight. I will show you a picture after I get my MSR in the mail.

Nazi NecroPhile · 07/30/2012, 03:26 PM

Looks dang nice. I hope it lasts years and years before re-yellowing, if at all.

esteban · 07/30/2012, 11:09 PM

Quote from: SignOfZeta on 07/30/2012, 12:44 AMPlease get back with us in a year to let us know how it looks then. Mine re-yellowed quite a bit.

Stop eating yogurt whilst playing Buster Bros. and you'll be fine.

KnightWarrior · 07/31/2012, 02:21 AM

Is there a Jet Black PC Engine?

Deletion · 07/31/2012, 10:21 AM

Quote from: KnightWarrior on 07/31/2012, 02:21 AMIs there a Jet Black PC Engine?

There's the LaserActive with NEC PAC and the Sharp X1 Twin computer (photos) that has a PC Engine built into it. And perhaps the Vistar but it might be a very dark gray.

Arkhan Asylum · 07/31/2012, 11:11 AM

Toldddddd you so

Did you find it way easier to deal with than making the Retrobrite paste recipe?

Nice job using that plastic container too. I almost always use fishtanks and leave them out in the driveway.

Duo_R · 07/31/2012, 12:01 PM

so the retrobright recipe doesn't work with the CD-Rom?

Duo_R · 07/31/2012, 12:01 PM

Also what was the salon stuff all about?

Deletion · 07/31/2012, 12:16 PM

Quote from: guest on 07/31/2012, 11:11 AMDid you find it way easier to deal with than making the Retrobrite paste recipe?

I didn't try making Retr0Bright since your suggestion was so much easier. Buy hydrogen peroxide. Pour. Wait

One question for you: How long is the hydrogen peroxide good for? I did notice it produced less air bubbles as time went on.

Deletion · 07/31/2012, 12:26 PM

Quote from: Duo_R on 07/31/2012, 12:01 PMAlso what was the salon stuff all about?

The Salon Care 40 Volume Clear Developer is hydrogen peroxide. That's the brand that is readily available at Sally Beauty Supply, a large chain of beauty supply stores in America. From what I've read, 40 volume (or V40) equates to 12% strength.

Frank_fjs · 07/31/2012, 12:44 PM

Quick qu, how long did you leave them in there for and did you do a single or multiple applications?

Duo_R · 07/31/2012, 12:46 PM

thanks! Yeah I was wondering why I didn't see regular hydrogeon peroxide in the photos. That stuff is stronger I assume?

Quote from: Deletion on 07/31/2012, 12:26 PM
Quote from: Duo_R on 07/31/2012, 12:01 PMAlso what was the salon stuff all about?
The Salon Care 40 Volume Clear Developer is hydrogen peroxide. That's the brand that is readily available at Sally Beauty Supply, a large chain of beauty supply stores in America. From what I've read, 40 volume (or V40) equates to 12% strength.

Deletion · 08/01/2012, 12:18 AM

Quote from: Frank_fjs on 07/31/2012, 12:44 PMQuick qu, how long did you leave them in there for and did you do a single or multiple applications?

It took me two weeks to whiten everything. The first attempt was on the PCE and that lasted 4 hours. There was a marked improvement and I didn't notice any ill effects, so I left them in longer. I did it only when I was around and able to check the pieces every few hours. As I became confident that the process worked and didn't hurt the plastic, I left them in when I was at work and over night. Towards the end of the two weeks, I left the pieces in for whole days at a time.

Deletion · 08/01/2012, 12:35 AM

Quote from: Duo_R on 07/31/2012, 12:46 PMthanks! Yeah I was wondering why I didn't see regular hydrogeon peroxide in the photos. That stuff is stronger I assume?

The Retr0bright recipes recommend a maximum strength of 15%. The strongest I found at Sally Beauty was 12% (40 volume) and it worked great. Lower strengths were also readily available at Sally's. Also, I used the liquid version (called Clear Developer) and not the cream or gel version (called Creme Developer).

50 volume = 15%
40 volume = 12%
30 volume = 9%
20 volume = 6%
10 volume = 3%

Frank_fjs · 08/01/2012, 01:03 AM

Thanks for the info!

Currently whitening a yellowed HuCard case but I'm relying on sunlight at the moment, of which there isn't much around in my part of the world. Has been a day so far and the case has improved but it's still yellow. I also only have 20 vol peroxide which doesn't help.

Kaijuboy · 08/01/2012, 02:04 AM

Quote from: turbokon on 07/30/2012, 12:17 AMHey Kaijuboy, I did this myself not to long ago. I left the overlay on the controllers and it turns out just fine.

Thats great news! I've got a cream colored controller that needs some love!

Guess its off to Sally Beauty supply tomorrow!

esteban · 08/01/2012, 12:27 PM

Quote from: Kaijuboy on 08/01/2012, 02:04 AMThats great news! I've got a cream colored controller that needs some love!

Please save the pornographic imagery for the chit-chat thread.

Cream-colored, indeed.

GameFreak · 08/04/2012, 03:30 PM

looks great!!! thanks for sharing the pics & info!!!

SuperPlay · 08/04/2012, 05:15 PM

Sooooooooooooo clean :-)

roflmao · 08/06/2012, 10:01 AM

Quote from: Frank_fjs on 07/29/2012, 11:35 PMFantastic write-up & result!

Thanks for sharing.

What he said.

Looks great!

meka · 08/18/2012, 05:01 AM

I used the RetroBright method (Lorne's Variant Recipe) on my SNES about a year ago and it still looks like it did when it was new.

There's a few different recipes at: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/Retr0Bright+Gel

Keith Courage · 08/18/2012, 05:44 AM

This is a good write up. I've always just used bleach on pce systems as well as the controllers and it works great. However, it never works for CD drives. I will have to remember this when I come across a yellow CD drive in the future.

Frank_fjs · 08/18/2012, 10:37 AM

I did a half-arsed version of this and it worked quite well, all things considered. I only used 20 vol cream peroxide and very little sunlight as it's the end of winter where I am.

Quite pleased with the result, not perfect but much, much better than before.

Drakon · 08/18/2012, 11:20 AM

Whoa frank that looks awesome

Deletion · 08/18/2012, 12:34 PM

Nicely done, Frank. That is a marked improvement.

Firebomber7 · 08/18/2012, 01:57 PM

Quote from: turbokon on 07/30/2012, 12:17 AM...I did this myself not to long ago. I left the overlay on the controllers and it turns out just fine.

Is that what you did to the one I got from you? I have another non-turbo and a turbo white pad, and they need to be whitened.

The ones you sold me looked pretty good. I sold a PCE unit to T2Kfreeker and did the bleach thing to that one. It looked a LOT better than before. I only left it in the bleach for an hour or two, in addition to scrubbing it with an old toothbrush in dish soap before hand.

xcrement5x · 08/21/2012, 11:04 AM

Looks great! Two questions though!

1) Did you just pour the hydrogen peroxide in the container, there's no mixing with water or anything else?

2) What did you do with the solution when you were done? Just dump it in the back yard?

Deletion · 08/21/2012, 12:23 PM

Quote from: guest on 08/21/2012, 11:04 AMLooks great! Two questions though!

1) Did you just pour the hydrogen peroxide in the container, there's no mixing with water or anything else?

Yes, I used only hydrogen peroxide. There was no water or other ingredients added. I originally planned to make Retr0bright, but decided to try just hydrogen peroxide first because it was simpler and cheaper.

Quote2) What did you do with the solution when you were done? Just dump it in the back yard?

I poured the hydrogen peroxide back into the original containers for later use. For disposal it should be safe to pour down the drain.

wilykat · 08/21/2012, 06:28 PM

Quote from: Deletion on 08/21/2012, 12:23 PM
Quote2) What did you do with the solution when you were done? Just dump it in the back yard?
I poured the hydrogen peroxide back into the original containers for later use. For disposal it should be safe to pour down the drain.

In some communities at some concentration it's not allowed in drain so check the label and your local ordinance. The one I've used is only 3% and is usually OK at that level.

If you have septic tank and no sewer hookup, take it somewhere else as well.