CIB system prices

[rs_jr]

Hi Everyone,

I am new here and new to the TG16.
I am an avid retro sega and nintendo fan. Recently I have been interested in getting into the TG16.

I wanted to know what are the price range for CIB TG16 and TG16 cd consoles are at the current market.

I know eBay isn't the best place but I can't find any online site that have them for sale.

Thanks for any help

[SignOfZeta]

I've never see a boxed TG-16 sell for more than $100,000.

[LostFlunky]

I had to get mine fixed. It kept overheating with me keeping it in the box and all.

[blueraven]

 

[PukeSter]

You're welcome

[ToyMachine78]

Please consider me for this raffle

[neopolss]

I had to get mine fixed. It kept overheating with me keeping it in the box and all. 

The trick is to cut vents into the styrofoam.  Maybe attach a fan.

[tbone3969]

It's worth $7,777

[CrackTiger]

Loose complete:

TG-16 $40 - $50
TG-CD: $100 - $150

CIB:

TG-16 $80 - $100
TG-CD: $300 - $400


Keith Courage (with comic) and the CD+G disc demand premiums.

[blueraven]

The trick is to cut vents into the styrofoam.  Maybe attach a fan.

But seriously, Black Tiger is spot on regarding the pricing of the system!

The truth is, rs_jr, that we have had a series of people who have joined the forum, and their inaugural post has been identical to or something similar to your want list. They have solicited deals from the members of this forum and flipped the systems for ridiculous profit on eBay. They have then either been trolled off the forum or have ragequit after being identified as a "flipper". It drives up the price of our hobby and causes serious contention with the long-time members of the forum.

This is why you have received this reaction. And you are also brand new. We have a Pro Tips for N00B's thread that I would read through to help understand how the forum appreciates new users.

If you are here to stay and contribute, welcome!

[bob]

Hi Everyone,

I am new here and new to the TG16.
I am an avid retro sega and nintendo fan. Recently I have been interested in getting into the TG16.

I wanted to know what are the price range for CIB TG16 and TG16 cd consoles are at the current market.

I know eBay isn't the best place but I can't find any online site that have them for sale.

Thanks for any help

cut it out, null.

[BigusSchmuck]

*cough*
Gamedude.
http://www.gamedude.com/turbog.html

[rs_jr]

I fond out about the site after watching Project COE videos on Youtube and he mentioned to avoid eBay and sign up to the forums

[ClodBusted]

Welcome stranger. What are you buyin', what are you selling?

[rs_jr]

i don't have anything to sell
and i was hoping to get advice whats the best way to start and what expect price wise.

I try to stick to a monthly budget for my hobbies so i want to get an idea about price before i buy anything.

[technozombie]

Buy a Duo-R with region and rgb mods. Probably best to buy this from one of the modders on the forum because they do the most quality work. After that Get an Everdrive and enjoy the games. Emphasis on the last 3 words of the previous sentence.

[rs_jr]

Whos modds DUO-R here?

If i get the RGB mode is the fraimister my only option to contact to my tv

thanks

[CrackTiger]

Keith Courage does great work and does most mods.

If you are playing on a crt TV which supports component, then all you need to get RGB on your TV is a transcoder like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SCART-RGB-to-YUV-Component-Video-Converter-Scaler-/221156873851?hash=item337dfa167b:m:mL77q83PIBdVHyF2RvMlcww


You only need a framemeister for upscaling to HD, if you insist on playing on a modern digital TV or are capturing HD video.

[jetfire13]

Lol! I love these forums.

[rs_jr]

Thanks

Keith Courage does great work and does most mods.

If you are playing on a crt TV which supports component, then all you need to get RGB on your TV is a transcoder like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SCART-RGB-to-YUV-Component-Video-Converter-Scaler-/221156873851?hash=item337dfa167b:m:mL77q83PIBdVHyF2RvMlcww


You only need a framemeister for upscaling to HD, if you insist on playing on a modern digital TV or are capturing HD video.

[Otaking]

Forget CIB, the most most legit TurboGrafx 16s come with edge lit signs.
PM Xray for details.
https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=12857.0

[DeshDildo]

I say the best bang for the buck is get yourself a refurbished PCE Duo.  Then grab yourself an everdrive and buy a stack of high quality blank CD-R's.  If you start with a card only system you'll soon realize you want the ability to play CD games too and then you'll be making a second hardware purchase.  A region mod is great if you decide to start buying actual copies of hucards.  The CD games are region free.  If you're using a CRT the stock composite out is fine unless you're a videophile. 

Use the everdrive and burned CD-R's to learn about the system's library and enjoy the games.  If you find games that are so awesome you feel the need to buy legit copies at least you know what you're getting into.  The stuff is getting expensive so informed decisions are the best decisions when working with a set budget.

[jonebone]

Loose complete:

TG-16 $40 - $50
TG-CD: $100 - $150

CIB:

TG-16 $80 - $100
TG-CD: $300 - $400


Keith Courage (with comic) and the CD+G disc demand premiums.

I don't follow TG-CD, but a loose complete TG-16 is around $100 shipped now and CIB is going to run you $150-$200 most likely.  More if Mint.  I had to hunt for a couple of months to find a CIB System at $110 shipped that had box wear and I was extremely happy with that pickup.

[tbone3969]

Get a refurbished DUO for sure.  It's very difficult to find a working CD unit and then you also have to get the 3.0 system card to gain access to the Super CD games and the arcade card with a region converter to play Arcade CD games (unless of course you get a region mod).

[xcrement5x]

Forget CIB, the most most legit TurboGrafx 16s come with edge lit signs.
PM Xray for details.
https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=12857.0

Lol I forgot about that guy.  I still got my sign from Secret Santa though chilling in my basement!

[ginoscope]

I would also recommend a PC Engine Duo.  As long as it has been recapped you can play pretty much the entire PC Engine library.

[DildoKKKobold]

Loose complete:

TG-16 $40 - $50

Where are you finding complete TG16s for $50?

[ClodBusted]

Wherever your mom hides them from you.

[DeshDildo]

Well that box is going to be in shitty condition.

[jonebone]

Loose complete:

TG-16 $40 - $50

Where are you finding complete TG16s for $50?

Yeah that pricing is outdated.  Even DK Oldies Sell your Games will buy a complete TG-16 with cords for $80 right now, and cover your shipping.  No testing, no cleaning, no questions asked. If you got a complete one, mail it to them and enjoy your $80.  They run on low margins but I'm sure they're getting $110-$120+ for them if they are paying that out in cash on trade in.

[SignOfZeta]

You could also buy real games and play them on a loose un-modded system...as was the norm for decades.

I'm a bit weirded out/tired by the whole "what you need is a $400 Duo and flash cart and CDRs" being promoted as the only path to PCE enjoyment. You don't really needed access to every single game for free. You can only play one at a time anyway, and a PCE looks and plays just fine un-modded as long as your TV isn't fucking everything up.

I would however mirror the Duo recommendation if you have the means. Card-only systems are severely held back and the modular ones are usually more expensive to procure and harder to service. That said, there are still a lot of good HuCARDs. If I had to choose between cards and CDs it would actually be a pretty hard choice to make.

Region mod: while this is handy, it's not really that useful. US HuCARDs are expensive and usually identical to JP ones. If you just buy a JP system in the first place the mod is really only useful for playing US HUCARDs that are special in some way, like translation and US only games. There are only...what, three text heavy games in English? And most of the US exclusives are unplayable crap since western development on consoles was a joke BITD.

In short, buy a Core with Super Star Solider before you spend five times as much on a system you might not even like.

[CrackTiger]

Loose complete:

TG-16 $40 - $50

Where are you finding complete TG16s for $50?

Yeah that pricing is outdated.  Even DK Oldies Sell your Games will buy a complete TG-16 with cords for $80 right now, and cover your shipping.  No testing, no cleaning, no questions asked. If you got a complete one, mail it to them and enjoy your $80.  They run on low margins but I'm sure they're getting $110-$120+ for them if they are paying that out in cash on trade in.

I'm not going to feed trolls or give leads to flippers, but you can get a game playing setup in that range on eBay.

[DeshDildo]

You could also buy real games and play them on a loose un-modded system...as was the norm for decades.

I'm a bit weirded out/tired by the whole "what you need is a $400 Duo and flash cart and CDRs" being promoted as the only path to PCE enjoyment. You don't really needed access to every single game for free. You can only play one at a time anyway, and a PCE looks and plays just fine un-modded as long as your TV isn't fucking everything up.

I would however mirror the Duo recommendation if you have the means. Card-only systems are severely held back and the modular ones are usually more expensive to procure and harder to service. That said, there are still a lot of good HuCARDs. If I had to choose between cards and CDs it would actually be a pretty hard choice to make.

Region mod: while this is handy, it's not really that useful. US HuCARDs are expensive and usually identical to JP ones. If you just buy a JP system in the first place the mod is really only useful for playing US HUCARDs that are special in some way, like translation and US only games. There are only...what, three text heavy games in English? And most of the US exclusives are unplayable crap since western development on consoles was a joke BITD.

In short, buy a Core with Super Star Solider before you spend five times as much on a system you might not even like.

I recommended a PCE Duo because it's (relatively speaking cheap).  I think Keith sells them for like $230 refurbished.  If you're handy you can still intermittently find them for around $100 if they have issues (I've never paid more than $150 for a Duo including my U.S. Duo because I buy broken stuff and fix it).  I think the PCE Duo is the best bang for the buck as far as hardware goes.

Why not Everdrive and CD-R's?  I personally don't like to buy games based on reviews.  Everyone likes different things.  I can typically pop in a game for a few minutes and decide whether or not I'm going to like it.  There are plenty of JP releases that I have no idea what they are.  My decision could be to take a chance and lose the money spent to buy it, or try it on Everdrive/CD-R/Emulator and see if it's something I would want to own.  What about expensive games like Magical Chase etc?  I will never shell out that kind of money to own it but I would still like to play it so thank god for Everdrive/CD-R/Emulator.

[CrackTiger]

Even if you want to buy and play original games, you should try them first on cdr and flashcarts.

[NecroPhile]

And if you're really worried about not liking the system at all, try a few of the most popular titles in an emulator.

I can't seriously see that being an issue, though, not unless it's some youngster that's never played anything other than CoD.  Outside of pervy majong games and digi-comics, they're games similar to what's found on every other 2D system.

[SignOfZeta]

To me, that's not fun. I buy my games based on experience with the developer, the character designer, the genre, the recommendations of friends, love for whatever game was ripped off to make this one (Outrun/Victory Run) and many times, yes, I'm drawn in by the box. When you go channel flipping in an emulator ALL context is removed. How that game looks on a shelf next to other games, it's place in a series, the image art, the magazine ads, reviews, etc are completely stripped away and all you have left is a file name. If that's actually fun to you, then by all means enjoy it. I know it's less fun for me that way because I've spent time doing it. That context that didn't make the transition to the zip file is real. You're missing more than a case.

Columbia Record club vs actual record store, more or less.

And music angle is no coincidence. I discovered a few years ago how FUCKING BORING it is to talk music with someone once they've sold off all their records.

"This one is pretty good!" (Points at some tiny text on a monitor)

"Nothing like this though." (Points at some other text)

"Dude, it took me forever to find this one." (Points at some slightly different text)

And just as my friends who have sold all their music off rarely listen to even %1 of their MP3 collection I find most people who channel flip ROMs have a very shallow appreciation for the games. If it doesn't entertain them in three seconds they flip again, only ever spending time on Sonic or Bonk or whatever, often times to study the display or controller or whatever but rarely will they discover a gem and completely clear it.

I expect none of this applies to a lot of people but maybe someone else sees it this way. ONLY playing free copies of shit with all non-digital art and context removed would make the PCE much less fun for me. It would have no affect on my ability to enjoy newer stuff since the game industry has succeeded in stripping out all that stuff on their own for $ reasons.

[DeshDildo]

Zeta, I do agree with your thinking.  I think most of us here grew up buying games that way.  I'd be lying to you if I said I still don't buy games this way.  However, as crappy as it is we live in a world where Last Alert sells for $50-$70.  While I personally love the game you could probably consider it to be mediocre and many probably don't like it.  When you're shelling out that kind of coin on an old game you know nothing about, on a system you know nothing about, it's probably wise to have a little "test drive" with it first.

[GoldenWheels]

I kind of agree with Zeta. I buy semi-blind on PC-E games because $10-$20 can still get you some cool action/shooters etc and it's fun firing it up for the first time and forming an opinion about a game, fresh. But that $ is my limit.

I also find that having cash invested (vs emulating/flash carts) seems to power me through the tougher parts of games, just like in the old days when you had one rental for the whole weekend or had just blown 2 months of lawnmowing money on one game. "I paid for this dammit, I won't quit!"

Now, if was still actively buying TG16 I'd be testing every game on an emulator because no one (IMO) should pay $40 for freakin' Impossamole.

I say I buy PC-E semi-blind as I only rule out basically what NecroPhile said--mah jong, comics, also anything heavy on needing to know Japanese, so that rules out the RPGs and strategy games.  To me, the PC Engine Bible site is my go to reference for learning about a game pre-buy (and even then I ignore their ratings on whether to get it/try it/avoid it rankings). They tells me what kind of game it is, how English friendly it is, and have enough screenshots to for me to say "yay" or "oh hell nay".

Thrill of the hunt, with a little risk involved, adds to the experience. JMO.

[ginoscope]

I'm totally with Zeta in that I hate having every game available to me at once.   I have a flash cart for many of my systems and even an ODE for my Saturn.  What I do to keep invested in my games is limit what I have on my sd card or what I burn.  This way it feels like these are the only games I own.

I have like 20 roms I think on my snes everdrive and won't put more on there unless I finish some of the ones I got.  This keeps me interested in a few games rather than scrolling through hundreds of titles.

[NecroPhile]

I can agree with that mindset for enjoying games over the long haul, but it's not really applicable to sampling a system before buying.

[CrackTiger]

"I like the NEC/Telenet/etc games I've played and I love Capcom/Sega/etc and Strider/GoldenAxe/etc and the packaging looks cool. So I can't go wrong!"

[DildoKKKobold]

I'm not going to feed trolls or give leads to flippers, but you can get a game playing setup in that range on eBay.

AKA, nowhere.

[esteban]

Zeta & Co., I'm with you.

It is *way* more fun to explore games the old way (having to budget your money and make decisions)...but I was buying games when they were reasonable.

I also paid too much for retail games back in the day (insert name of crappy game here, the game you will be stuck with for a long time before you can afford another).

I don't begrudge folks who "test drive" (as someone said, Impossamole is an *acquired* taste)... But it really isn't the same thing.

With any purchase or decision, there is a risk involved. When I chose to buy lots of shitty PCE games en masse, I was hoping to at least enjoy the Red Book tracks.... (Unfortunately, lots of the games I bought didn't have music, or music I liked). That didn't always work out. I felt somewhat disappointed. HOWEVER, when you do stumble upon a gem (a great song or a great game), it feels even sweeter because you had to endure that earlier disappointment.

Yin
Yang

Bitter
Sweet

I am just throwing my 2¢ behind the idea that the way we *experience* games begins well before flip the power switch.

I also believe that you can "simulate" the original retail experience by looking at scans/photos of original physical artifacts. No, it's not as fun for me, but a little research/effort help me appreciate teh romz so they don't feel completely divorced from physical gaming.

Anyway, knowing the *context* of a game is something I like. I don't need to be an expert on it, but I want to know a little bit. It just makes stuff so much more interesting.

[crazydean]

Este has it right. I doubt anyone disagrees with Zeta in that buying real games is the best way to go, and 20 years ago, it was the way to do it. However, I can't go to the flea market and pick up 20 NES titles for $20.

If I could go out and buy complete TG-16 or PCE games for $5 each, that's what I would do. Unfortunately, I can't just look in the classifieds section of my local paper and find this stuff anymore (not that I ever saw TG-16 stuff locally, anyway).

[SignOfZeta]

I can agree with that mindset for enjoying games over the long haul, but it's not really applicable to sampling a system before buying.

You're right. But when did that become compulsory? When I bought my Duo it was the ONLY Duo or Super System compatible TG-16 that I had ever seen. It was probably two years before I saw another one. Are we really such chicken shit pussies in 2016 that we can't buy something before we bore ourself with the details of it first?

Also, I only bought one PCE game so far this year ($40 copy of one of the best games on the system, PC Denjin) but have prices really gone so high that you can't afford it or are PCE games just not fun unless they cost $1 and you have every single fucking one of them? They all cost $50-70 new you know, is the average game price even half that now? I'm pretty sure it isn't.

I'm not saying people need to blow all their money on ancient software. Don't do that. But unless you are hella poor you can probably afford PCE gaming, you just can't afford TOTAL gaming on the PCE, the machine that does everything and comes with every game, and neither can I. I only have like 100 games. Probably 1/7 of what ROM hoarders have. In some ways I invest more in this system than others, in some way more.

[GoldenWheels]

It is *way* more fun to explore games the old way (having to budget your money and make decisions)...but I was buying games when they were reasonable.

What was "reasonable" for you and when was this?

I ask because it's pretty amazing....I've not been playing Turbo nearly as long as most of you. I'm purely an adult player, never had one/always wanted one blah blah blah. But just in the past 2-3 years what I considered "reasonable" would now look like a steal/deal on ebay etc.

No lie, I still kick myself for not buying Ordyne BIN for 20$. I may not like the game, I dunno, but I'll likely never see that price again.

[esteban]

It is *way* more fun to explore games the old way (having to budget your money and make decisions)...but I was buying games when they were reasonable.

What was "reasonable" for you and when was this?

I ask because it's pretty amazing....I've not been playing Turbo nearly as long as most of you. I'm purely an adult player, never had one/always wanted one blah blah blah. But just in the past 2-3 years what I considered "reasonable" would now look like a steal/deal on ebay etc.

No lie, I still kick myself for not buying Ordyne BIN for 20$. I may not like the game, I dunno, but I'll likely never see that price again.

I was buying new TG-16 and TG-CD games for $30-60 back in the day... that continued even with TZD mail order.

Obviously, some of those games go for much more now, but, adjusted for inflation, $30-60 in late 80's/early-90's was a significant chunk of money for a working-class-trying-to-be-middle-class family.

Let me go to a website that calculates these things...

$30 in 1989 ~$58 in 2016
$30 in 1993 ~$50 in 2016

Anyway, I am not saying you must pay original retail prices, since there are still many affordable TG-16 games.

Buy the affordable ones.

Cry yourself to sleep about the games that are beyond your budget.

[LostFlunky]

It is *way* more fun to explore games the old way (having to budget your money and make decisions)...but I was buying games when they were reasonable.

What was "reasonable" for you and when was this?

I ask because it's pretty amazing....I've not been playing Turbo nearly as long as most of you. I'm purely an adult player, never had one/always wanted one blah blah blah. But just in the past 2-3 years what I considered "reasonable" would now look like a steal/deal on ebay etc.

No lie, I still kick myself for not buying Ordyne BIN for 20$. I may not like the game, I dunno, but I'll likely never see that price again.

I started buying TG16 games when the last titles were trickling out and the systems were being cleared.  I paid full retail for many games, but then around 1996:

[bob]

that is fucking awesome.  what is the line item that just says "turbo 5.00"?

[LostFlunky]

that is fucking awesome.  what is the line item that just says "turbo 5.00"?

That is SideArms.  I had to check - the box has the Radio Shack stock label on it  - 580-1569