The Analogue Turbo Duo clone shipped in time for Christmas 2023. Are you happy with yours ?? Find firmware updates here.
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Messages - bacteria

#1
Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: RGB mod chip
01/01/2014, 06:11 AM
The CTX chip can be tapped for RGB, S-video or composite; certainly on TurboGrafx. Connecting to a SCART cable is quite simple too, and gives a nice image.

What does this mod offer as extra benefit, just curious - does it work on all versions of systems?
#2
Buy/Sell/Trade / 8PDT switches for sale
12/31/2013, 06:26 AM
I have several of these available if anyone wants some.

They go on ebay for about 3x this price often, but i'm happy to sell at the price below if you want any (I bought too many a while back!)

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Each one £4.75 (ie ONE unit not packet!), postage £1.20 (UK), more if outside UK of course. Only pay postage once though, as can send several for no extra charge.

Payment via PayPal in British Pounds only (£).

If you are interested, please email me : bacteria@virginmedia.com

These are 8 pole 2 throw switches, ideal for region free use of TurboGrafx / PC Engine as we all know.
#3
The PS3's suffered from issues including overheating too; neither brand is probably ideal.
#4
People leaving interest on the Xbox is kinda appropriate - it is therefore the "ex"-box
#5
Nice to see the general feeling is against being dictated to with new consoles, and preferring retro games anyway.

Personally I prefer gameplay anyway, which lends to retro games and systems.

Irrespectively, the internet I use at home is only ethernet as i'm not happy using wireless, and also I don't expect to have to pay inflated game prices, if I get games they tend to be second hand and cheap as most games are not worth paying good money for. Both of those factors seem to also lend to retro gaming too, given the policy for money-grabbing by the console manufacturers.

Talking of retro gaming, unrelated in a way but not really - I am expecting to release my video and pics to the world tomorrow for my Project Unity system. A retro console that can play 18 game formats, no emulation or clone hardware included, one controller, one power supply, one SCART cable...
#6
Off-Topic / Re: Other retro gaming forums
02/24/2013, 04:04 PM
My forum. Specialises in all retro consoles and modding them.
#7
A VGA sync needs V-Sync and H-Sync I believe, V-Sync is on the picture, how about H-Sync?
#8
I'll be easy to spot, I plan to have a dark T-shirt with my logo on it in large format. Cool - see you there!
#9
Yes, i'm going; and i've been asked to be one of the speakers at the event. If you look on their site, you see "John Grayson" - that's me!  ;)

I'll be going a presentation on the Project Unity system and a talk about portable modding in general.

See you there!
#10
Usually, the solder points are easy to line with the wires going in as they are staggered, however the ones in your pic aren't, so you'll need to use your multimeter for the continuity testing, to know what wire goes to which solder point. A continuity tester is a vital piece of modding equipment.

Not all multimeters have the audible beep on the continuity testing, so not a lot of use (you need the beep as you can still get a register that looks ok but isn't), another option is to make your own, I use this a LOT:

http://www.made-by-bacteria.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=228&t=2853
#11
Thanks for the warm welcome guys, appreciated; i've been a member here for quite a while (2009) but not posted a lot here I know. I'll have to check out more threads here and see if I can participate more!  ;o)

The TurboGrafx is one of my favourite consoles, has some great games after all. I've not played my TurboGrafx portable (made that quite a while back) for quite a long time, will have to turn it on again!
#12
When i'm about to mod my TurboGrafx and PCengine boards, i'll be more active here for a while, catching up on recent threads to see if there are things I need to research.

On the subject of shielding, i've opened up a lot of consoles, and every one has shielding, some can be a hassle to remove too.

I think originally shielding was so prevalent as interference could happen if you put one system on top of another, especially regards RF units. Cheaper for companies to install shielding than having to deal with product recall I guess. Gadgets these days still tend to often have shielding, although less common.

Nulltard - you can make a vacuum forming table for next to nothing, what costs though are the plastic sheets, and whatever you use for a mold.
#13
Cool!

I haven't frequented this forum for a while now, although will do at some point. I like the TurboGrafx; made a portable with one years ago, will also incorporate one into my Project Unity, and also a future handheld multi-system. Then i'll be back on this forum again for a bit!

There are two things in a gaming console that does "need" shielding for is the RF box as that generates interference, so if you remove it (modern televisions don't like RF anymore anyway so remove it) you're fine; the other thing (which isn't relevant to the Turbografx or PCengine) is if the console has a transformer inside, like for example a PS2, DreamCast or PS1 (original), as transformers if unregulated can kick out a lot of magnetic field/interference. I had that when I tried to use a PS2 transformer for my Unity project, it affected all systems within about 8 inches or so, especially if they used motors (eg CD drives); those sort of systems need shielding unless you remove the transformer and use other regulators or external supply.
#14
In my Project Unity I have many console systems, bare boards, all quite close to each other - no issues at all. So yes, you can remove the shielding no issues.
#15
Simple and unusual reason - the Intellivision uses a matrix like a computer keyboard does for working out what button is pressed and relaying it back to the console. The d-pad on the Intellivision is 16 way rather than 8 way as normal, the way it does this is to use a ground for some of the directions and a different data line (not ground) for the others. yes, it's unusual, but i'm trying to find a solution, ie above!
#16
Ok, presumably must be digital data as it's a button press not a potentiometer like on a joystick; either the data is on (button pressed) or not (button not pressed). So, how would I please route digital data using AND and also XOR chips?

I made a diagram to hopefully help describe what i'm having trouble communicating! lol

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#17
You are right Charlie, the reason I wasn't clear is I had conflicting information in my mind so it didn't help me to be clear in my posting.

I thought that "What I really need is "if button 1 is pressed (1A) and button 2 are pressed (2A) at the same time, then take line data input from Z and output to 1Y" was fairly clear.

On reflection i'm not sure if I can do what I want to do, as these logic chips require voltage and
I need it without. I think the only solution to what i'm trying to do is via mechanical means by building my own mini joystick.
#18
Just realised something - need help again!

What I actually want is if button 1 is pressed AND button 2 is pressed, then output ground via Y1; and on the XOR chip I need it to say if button 1 is pressed or button 2 is pressed but not both at the same time output a different data line via 1Y

From what I understand, the schematics for the above outputs voltage if two buttons are pressed at the same time on AND; not "use this connection instead".

What I really need is "if button 1 is pressed (1A) and button 2 are pressed (2A) at the same time, then take line data input from Z and output to 1Y

Ideas please? If this is the wrong chip for what I want, what do I need please?
#19
Thanks so very much, got my AND logic gate working now!

I'm going to upload a video on this in due course as part of my online guides, to hopefully help others, when i've got it all working.
#20
Thanks for the guidance Charlie, i'll give it a go - only using LED's until I have got used to the logic chip, then i'll use it for what I intend - my real application is using an Intellivision console, I worked out the matrix on the controller as while back; press up or right and you get normal button action plus ground; press up AND right at the same time it doesn't use ground it uses a different connection. I therefore need an AND logic gate for if both buttons are pressed at the same time to use the other connector instead of ground; and an XOR so that if it isn't an AND logic then it will use ground instead.

If I just use an AND gate then that will only serve one function, I need XOR so if one button only is pressed then i'll get connection to the other one.
#21
Bought a couple of logic gate IC chips, one is the 74HC08 chip

I actually want to use an AND and also an XOR chip to decide which of two connections to connect a circuit to (the Intellivision matrix). The principle however I also want to use for my TurboGrafx too when do it for this system.

On the AND I know the logic is "If A1 AND B1 are on, then Y1 is on, otherwise off".

Here is a datasheet, there are one or two others around: http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datashe ... HC08.shtml

For testing purposes, as I expect the circuit to be "on" or "off", I wanted to connect an LED into the output (added a 75ohm resistor to protect the LED) so when I press two buttons the LED illuminates. Can't make it work.

As some of you guys have used IC chips to select region switching, thought you might know how to do this?

Connected 5v to the VCC line and ground to the grounding pin. Couldn't work out how to connect button contacts to the circuit so the LED comes on when both buttons are pressed. If I can do this, I can remove the LED and replace with what I need.

Help?
#23
Indeed, it is strange, but some game carts need to go into the cart slot a little more than others to register.
#24
Thanks for the comments guys, appreciated!
#25
Done!


Here are some pics of the completed system, complete with a video:

Final weight: a mere 750g.

Dimensions: 215 x 135 x 55mm

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All details in the video:
The worklog WIP for the system is HERE

The full worklog is on my Wordpress site, along with other tutorials, please have a look! This project (IntoGrafx) and previous one (IntoPlay) are on two sections - finished project and how-to guides on my site. That is to keep sections separate for modding the console system and also making the portable.


Please note - the Wordpress site has a limit of 35 users on at any one time, so if the site is busy, please try again in a few minutes!
#26
Super work!
#28
Cool.

Does that mean therefore that if they used the PCengine CD ROM drive for their computer that you can mod a computer IDE drive to work on a PCengine CD drive? (if so, how?). Cheap way to have one if you can! Easy enough to power a CD drive, it's just the interface that's the issue I expect?
#29
It would have been so much better if NEC had just done what many other manufacturers do - customer buys main unit. Customer buys addon (eg CD Rom) complete; not: if you have X you can add Y but only if you have A which by the way needs addon G which isn't built in.  :x
#30
Guys, I have a CoreGrafx. Am I right in saying that I must have an interface and CD ROM to play CD games on the CoreGrafx, or if I wire the CoreGrafx and CD Rom drive together would that save me needing an interface unit? Is the CD Rom a female plug, so instead of wiring, can I just plug it into the CoreGrafx? Any issues with that?

This isn't mine, just a pic of the e-bay item. BTW - ideas to make the CD Rom unit work, from description below??

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#31
I have included a three way mini switch for the turbo feature - one for "I" and one for "II". They are situated to either side of the region game switch at the top of the system.

Project is near completion now, as you may have seen on ModRetro. There is also a low voltage LED circuit in the system too, which I rather like!
#32
So, excuse me for being dumb here, but are the games shown here all the 1991 releases or just a selection the poster doesn't like??
#33
Found these, which make great card holders for HUcards - they are actually "Trading card plastic wallets / 9 pocket sleeves" - larger than business card holders, and as you see, big enough for the job and just the right size. They are also top opening.

These cost £2.79 for a pack of 9, so that makes them cheap, and also fit nicely into an A4 binder.

Thought I would share this find with you!

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#34
I have five titles for the GX4000. The console was a commercial failure, only had about 40 games released and only half a dozen of them were good titles, even for the time. Some competitions offered the console as naff prize as the console was regarded as a lemon. I do have fond memories of those games though!

Anyone else got a GX4000, or owned one in the past?

Interestingly enough, the system could output composite and also RGB, which was a surprise!
#35
Yes, for some reason there are some amusing pics on systems sometimes; eg on a CD PCE game too.
#36
If he's sending you a replacement free of charge, why not have a go at rewiring the broken traces, then you have a spare system!  :-"
#37
Just to let you guys know, I am updating my WIP guide on a fairly new forum I am a member on - well, an Admin on to be more precise (no point having the WIP on two sites). The BenHeck forum has lost a lot of quality members over the last couple of years and there is discontent from many there, so some are migrating over to the ModRetro forum. This forum has only been up for a matter of weeks but is quite a hive of activity, and will be increasing membership quite dramatically over the next couple of months once it gets publicity, especially from completed portables.

Come over, have a look, please register and start posting! (The ModRetro forum site is  HERE  My project is in "Other systems".
#38
Ok, I was wondering as one came up on e-bay.
#39
This took about 3 days work to get to this stage. Needs speaker holes and the button holes need smoothing; but the case is beautifully smooth.

Taken delivery of my CoreGrafx and the Tennokoe2 unit, not opened them up yet. I am curious about the size of these beauties! :D

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#40
PC-FX Discussion / What is a PC-FX please
06/12/2009, 03:42 AM
Saw something about this a while back, what is a PC-FX and what does it do, and how does it compare to a Duo for example?
#41
Won this game on e-bay for a very decent price. Am I right in saying it is rare and expensive, if so, what is its value - it is boxed.

Recently won a CoreGrafx, looking to buy a backup/save device and at some point maybe a CD addon.

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#42
Small update, but positive.

Finished sanding the sides, after building it up a little, looks a bit crude in pic but actually quite smooth. Before I spray paint, I will get the edges nice and rounded though. What matters is it is smooth as the filler won't show anyway. Polyfiller (fine crack stuff) can be easily scraped off, so used AVA glue to seal it, and also fill in some of the pits in the pic too - hence feels smooth, doesn't look it.

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Using this controller, from a CD plug and play system, as the buttons are nice and prominent and feel nice to use. I will paint them black in due course.

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Nice small board and easy to solder to traces:

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Crudely cut out some of the holes in the case front - screen, d-pad and 2 button controls. I need to finish them off with lots of careful filing and dremeling of course, and also make holes for the volume control, start and select buttons too. It will take probably 3-4 hours to complete this before I can start spray painting and varnishing, before assembly can start inside the case front.

Just a WIP pic

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#43
Been a while - time for an update. Not a biggie, but progress is slow.

Put the case top on top of system, so I can get the edges to meet as closely to the case base as I can make it. The case base is slightly taller than originally planned, so the case top also needs to be a little thicker too; that means I need to build up the lid a little, which I don't normally need to do. To fill the sides, I will use some polyfiller, apply, sand, apply, sand, etc.

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Meets pretty well - obviously the two case halves are not pressed together here!

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The lip

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The Polyfiller

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Before...

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During...

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Looks a bit rough here - Polyfiller is really easy to sand, leaves a smooth surface, and can be sealed with AVA glue if needed to be rock hard.

After...

(next update).... :wink:
#44
At this rate, someone is just going to post one pixel and ask people to guess  #-o
#45
Quote from: MXS on 05/27/2009, 05:33 PMI will not buy one, I was just wondering about 50/60 Hz. :)

I'm into to PCE! 8)
If you get the PAL unit you mention (assuming you are in a PAL region), you can tap off the CTX chip for excellent RGB, easily. Just saying!
#46
Nice work. Good you got it to work - $50 is quite a bit to gamble on the fact that something can be repaired so it is gratifying when it can be done!
#47
Good advice. I have bought a lot on e-bay and been lucky that everything worked, even one or two "untested" systems I took a gamble on as they were cheap.
#48
A few updates, not big, but here anyway.

Wired up the audio jack and the two turbo switches, then covered with electrical tape to prevent shorts.

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Pic showing it running. I put some paper around the system to maintain some pressure on the components to make sure all was fine - best not to use tape around a case as there is a chance that when removed it will strip off some of the paint in the process. Game is Gradius (Jap) on the screen.

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I will get it lower than this, just over the top/nearly level with the top. Unavoidable as the height of the cart slot is quite chunky, I have no manouver on the board positioning as it is tight as it is, the wiring and capacitors, etc. The system will probably end up about 55mm thick or so, which is absolutely fine and comfortable to use; however, I might have to add a little Polyfiller to the case top to make it fit against the case base, as I had to make the case base as tall as possible, which means the case top might be slimmer than normal so need fattening up a bit - not sure yet though.

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As mentioned, I will get it lower than in the pic, then hot glue it down a bit. I will have to be creative in design to screw the two case halves together as I can't use screw posts like before - I have ideas though.

As you see, there is a lot of wiring to contend with. The case front not only has to have the controls and screen and board but also the controller board and mini board too. I know it can be done, but it won't be easy.
#49
It sucks when someone sells something on e-bay without being honest about its condition or what doesn't work, etc. You should consider reporting him.
#50
Thinking about it, even if I did have a pinout I couldn't use it anymore as I removed the external port section ages ago so have no way to trace the pins back!

Yes, the unit in my pic needs 3v (2 x AA's). If all the system does is just save hi-scores then it I don't see it as being of much benefit - I didn't know if you could save game progress on the fly instead. Never mind!