PC Engine AV Mod

[Spector]

Okay, it's the dreaded "who can perform an AV mod for me" thread...

I live in the UK, and am looking to delve into the world of PC Engine magic. I want to mod a white JAP PC Engine, and nothing else. I know that superfamifreak used to do this, but he doesn't visit here much anymore. Is there anyone else in the UK capable of modding? Hope so!

[CrackTiger]

Okay, it's the dreaded "who can perform an AV mod for me" thread...

I live in the UK, and am looking to delve into the world of PC Engine magic. I want to mod a white JAP PC Engine, and nothing else. I know that superfamifreak used to do this, but he doesn't visit here much anymore. Is there anyone else in the UK capable of modding? Hope so 

You can buy many of the other PC Engine systems, which all have A/V output, for a lot less than what someone would charge for a mod.

[nat]

Get a CoreGrafx. Same as the PC engine just with the AV outputs. It's grey instead of white, too. Otherwise identical.

[Spector]

Yeah I know about these other versions. Just to stop the thread turning into a lot of suggestions as to what model to buy with A/V, I repeat that it's the white model that I want modded, and that's all. I have a question or two regarding the CoreGrafx, but that's for another thread.

[Joe Redifer]

Get a CoreGrafx, take off the grey shell.  Throw it away.  Put white PC Engine shell on CoreGrafx.  Cut hole for composite video and stereo audio jacks.  Show to friends.

[termis]

Get a CoreGrafx, take off the grey shell.  Throw it away.  Put white PC Engine shell on CoreGrafx.  Cut hole for composite video and stereo audio jacks.  Show to friends. 

That probably really is the easiest way if you want just the A/V output.  Not to mention you'll get a two units out of the deal for probably less money (unless you really throw away the other unit as Joe suggested), and it'll be sturdier than actually modifying the unit.

The only thing is, you'll have to use the standard a/v cable that you have to use for the Coregrafx/Duos - the large din5 type.  I'm assuming that's not a problem.

[guyjin]

if you can get your hands on a French Sodipeng unit, those output SCART... or does your TV not accept that?

[termis]

Oh, and do you ever plan to add a CD-ROM system to this PC Engine unit?  Because once you connect it to a CD-ROM system, you have access to an a/v output through the cd-rom unit.

[CrackTiger]

Oh, and do you ever plan to add a CD-ROM system to this PC Engine unit?  Because once you connect it to a CD-ROM system, you have access to an a/v output through the cd-rom unit.

But it won't fit into the CD-ROM interface if it's modded. 

[Seldane]

OFF TOPIC: This thread made me want to play PC Engine. BADLY!! I'll do it soon.

/spam 

[Spector]

Two follow up questions regarding the CoreGrafx:

1. Is there anyone from the UK here that uses one?
2. If so, how good is the picture? Is it snowy, or fairly clear?

[Ninja Spirit]

We have one other UK PC Engine owner Digi.k. He showed us pictures where he uses I think RGB cables

Though I live in the USA (NTSC territory), I straight up sympathize with you PC Engine fans living in Europe

[NeoStuey]

Hello everyone,

Short term lurker and a first time poster here. 

In answer to your question Spector, I'm in the UK and have had a white PCE successfully modded to output RGB.

/DSCF2668.jpg

It's had the RF modulator removed and replaced with an internal RGB mod with amplifier that connects using a DIN to Scart connection. In fact I have two different Scart leads made at my request.

One (not pictured) is for when the PC Engine is in stand alone mode, this takes both the audio and video signal via the DIN connection and out through the Scart.

/DSCF2667.jpg

The Second (pictured above) when using the CD Interface takes just the RGB video signal via the DIN connection and the audio via two phonos is taken from the AV output on the Interface unit to Scart. This gives me the best of both worlds as now my PC Engine can be used either with or without the CD Interface and I still get the optimum picture performance.

A couple of pics to show RGB in the flesh. My TV screen being rear projection makes it hard to capture a great photo but these examples aren't too bad, it still looks much nicer in the flesh.

/DSCF2669.jpg
/DSCF2670.jpg
/DSCF1991.jpg

I haven't the skill/patience to do such a mod myself but I will see if I can contact the guy who did such a great job on mine.

[chaoticjelly]

Stuey told me about this thread so I have registered, apologies for not introducing myself first, I am fairly active on some other forums which I wont mention since im not sure if its against your board rules yet. I have lurked here a bit too.

I am the person who modded Stueys PC Engine as shown above for RGB output. I think the original poster may be wanting RGB output instead of A/V output, but yes, you could call the socket an "A/V socket" that outputs RGB..

I modded Stueys by taking out the old RF unit and trying to neatly enlarge the hole to fit the new DIN socket.

It would of been possible if it were a standalone PC Engine to have a captive cable coming out of the rear i.e. no socket, just a cable coming out secured by a grommet, but since he wanted to use it with an IFU-30 and CD-ROM unit that wasnt an option.

Anyway if anyone wants to get in touch I can provide plenty of feedback and references with regards to my modding skills, all happy people of course, just send me a PM and I can provide all the necessary info.

Ive only got into PC Engine recently, ive played "teh romz" some time ago on my GP32, and I really like the system and games. Im a big collector of Sega and Nintendo, from the UK, North-West (Lancashire)

Anyway peace out, James.

[Spector]

Ah yes: breakthrough!

I'm just going to send you a pm right now...    O:)

[Spector]

I sent a pm, but it hasn't shown up in my outbox. I don't know whether it got there now...

[Joe Redifer]

I've purchased a few SCART cables from Chaoticjelly on eBay and they've always worked well.  I added an amp and put a DIN-8 socket (from an old TurboTap) into the interface unit of my TurboGrafx-16 CD-ROM.  I then removed the resistors from an old Mega Drive 1 SCART cable, made the audio cable fit into regular RCA plugs and there I go.  Since I am in the US, I transcode the RGB into component video.  Looks phuggin' great!



And, of course, a shot of my TV screen.


Note that I do NOT stretch 4:3 images to 16:9, since that is evil.  Of course this TV isn't 16:9 anyway, so that helps. 

[KungFuKid]

Yeah, I know ChaoticJelly from over at sega8bit where he regularly posts. He's a good guy and REALLY knows his stuff when it comes to modding pretty much every system. He's done stuff for a lot of people I know.

[GUTS]

Joe what do you use to transcode to component?  A guy on the Gamesx forum recommended a Jrock box since they're pretty reasonably priced, like $65 or so.

[PCEngineHell]

For component Jrok you'd have to buy something like the Jrok 4.0,which is actually around 85-90 bucks.

[Joe Redifer]

My SCART RGB to component (YUV) transcoder is made by CYP.  I had to import it from Australia and it was close to $95 or so.  it works great and I use it for all of my "classic" systems.  Totally worth it unless you plan on using it for only one system.



It does need a slight mod for sound, though, as it doesn't support sound at all.  It is very simple, just attach the RCA sound cables to the SCART pins inside.

[GUTS]

Sweet, yeah I need to get one of those, old systems look like ass on an HDTV through S-video or regular AV.  I just emailed the Jrock guy to ask about prices, I must have been looking at something else because I thought I saw $65 as the price for just the component one.

[Joe Redifer]

They'll look like ass on an HDTV with component video as well.  HDTV cannot handle 240p very well.  Play on an SDTV that handles component.

[Seldane]

They look like ass on ANY tv using composite or s-video!! 

[Keranu]

Composite rules.

[TR0N]

Composite rules.

Yeah right No Component and RBG rules.

No offense but composite is like looking through a dirty fish bowl.

[Keranu]

I don't see anything wrong with composite. It can look a bit poor on Genesis, but I don't mind it. But really, using composite isn't the end of the world and is cheaper and easier for a person like me to use. Not only that, but from what I've heard, using composite for older games can actually be better since dithering patterns will look nicer. I'm not a techie nerd when it comes to this (and frankly, I don't want to be; spare my life  !), so sorry if my n00bish post offends.

[termis]

I don't see anything wrong with composite. It can look a bit poor on Genesis, but I don't mind it. But really, using composite isn't the end of the world and is cheaper and easier for a person like me to use. Not only that, but from what I've heard, using composite for older games can actually be better since dithering patterns will look nicer. I'm not a techie nerd when it comes to this (and frankly, I don't want to be; spare my life  !), so sorry if my n00bish post offends.

You know, as much as I like tinkering around with systems, I was never a videophile myself.   I definitely have to agree with Keranu somewhat.  On older systems, if you get to see every single pixel clearly, graphics just start looking very blocky cause the original resolution of the game is too low (i.e. like running 8/16-bit emulators on your pc monitor and leaving off the dithering/higher resolution options.

But I can obviously see the benefit in using component/rgb hookups for newer systems where the resolution is high enough to not let the above happen.

Well, I dunno - am I really missing something here for not using rgb connections for a system like the tg16/pc-engine?

[Spector]

I don't see anything wrong with composite. It can look a bit poor on Genesis, but I don't mind it. But really, using composite isn't the end of the world and is cheaper and easier for a person like me to use. Not only that, but from what I've heard, using composite for older games can actually be better since dithering patterns will look nicer. I'm not a techie nerd when it comes to this (and frankly, I don't want to be; spare my life  !), so sorry if my n00bish post offends.

You know, as much as I like tinkering around with systems, I was never a videophile myself.   I definitely have to agree with Keranu somewhat.  On older systems, if you get to see every single pixel clearly, graphics just start looking very blocky cause the original resolution of the game is too low (i.e. like running 8/16-bit emulators on your pc monitor and leaving off the dithering/higher resolution options.

But I can obviously see the benefit in using component/rgb hookups for newer systems where the resolution is high enough to not let the above happen.

Well, I dunno - am I really missing something here for not using rgb connections for a system like the tg16/pc-engine?

I'd like to find out about the difference between rgb and av too. In the 1980s/ early 90s, when people played the PC Engine/Turbografx, nobody used RGB - the best they had was A/V. If it was good enough for them, then surely it's good enough for us now?

[NeoStuey]

Here comes a very non technical reply. 

From my own experience I'll admit that the composite image produced by the Interface Unit isn't too bad, but some things I've noticed with the composite connection is that the colours can seem washed out or even dull, their can be visible shimmering on fast moving objects or even still images with areas of high contrast. You can also get colour bleed, particularly reds and blues have indistinct edges leading to some images looking slightly blurred.

With a properly done RGB mod, ( thanks to chaoticjelly  ) the colour is much improved, the shimmer disappears and the reds and blue's are much better defined leading to a sharper image overall. 

AFAIK it was possible back in the day to mod the white PC Engines for RGB but the original mod drew a rather low powered RGB signal straight out of the PC Engine without any amplification. Colour booster amps were later released to rectify the problem. Starting out as stand alone boxes that your scart lead would plug into and then out to the TV. They were eventually replaced by a colour booster scart cable that was basically a female to male scart lead with the colour boosting amp wired in that you plugged between your PC Engine and TV.

The mod that chaoticjelly did for me put all the electronics needed back inside the PC Engine so the mod and amp are all self contained within the console itself. I guess that over time the electronic components needed to make such an amplifier have gotten small enough and that the technical knowledge has been refined over the years for this to be the case.

Posted by: Joe Redifer

Note that I do NOT stretch 4:3 images to 16:9, since that is evil.  Of course this TV isn't 16:9 anyway, so that helps.  Smile

I agree entirely, I wouldn't stretch the image either but unfortunately my TV has really horrible bright grey borders when running in 4:3 mode. I wish they could be set to black, I could live with that.  O:)

[Spector]

Here comes a very non technical reply. 

From my own experience I'll admit that the composite image produced by the Interface Unit isn't too bad, but some things I've noticed with the composite connection is that the colours can seem washed out or even dull, their can be visible shimmering on fast moving objects or even still images with areas of high contrast. You can also get colour bleed, particularly reds and blues have indistinct edges leading to some images looking slightly blurred.

With a properly done RGB mod, ( thanks to chaoticjelly  ) the colour is much improved, the shimmer disappears and the reds and blue's are much better defined leading to a sharper image overall. 

Are the graphics "blockier" looking as a result? I'd guess they would be. This is one thing I don't like about emulators - the image is too clear, and that is putting me off RGB a bit. The thought of washed out colours puts me off too though...

[PCEngineHell]

Shimmering is about the worst aspect of using composite on older systems. Color bleed can be corrected if you have a good tv with a comb filter. 3-line to 3d filters will correct the color bleed you speak of. 2-line filters will battle it,but will still experience a little bit. I have 3 tvs in the house,1 Samsung,and 2 Apexs. Both of the Apex tvs have 3-line filters and have been calabrated with the Avia calibration utility. Neither Apex gets color bleed except on VHS or a very poorly mastered laserdisc. The Samsung only has a 2-line comb filter and its a poor quality one,so it can experience some color bleed. Its not terrible however,and the sharpnes is good even in composite.

Genesis wise,the composite output was poor to begin with,and depending on what model you have,it can be worse from deck to deck.The Genesis is def one of those systems that gets a huge boost when modded to s-video or when used with RGB.

[Seldane]

Well, I dunno - am I really missing something here for not using rgb connections for a system like the tg16/pc-engine?

Oh absolutely! Especially since you said PCE, which easily has the worst composite output I've ever seen! Once you go RGB, you can never go back. Never. Of course, since it is a tv rather than a monitor, the picture is still slightly blurry, but it is nowhere near the infernal blur the composite output delivers. And the colors, oh the colors. The difference cannot be described with words, it really isn't possible.

The only good thing about composite is that it gives you that nice nostalgic feeling of having a bad picture on a bad tv. At least that's the feeling it gives me.

[Spector]

Well, I dunno - am I really missing something here for not using rgb connections for a system like the tg16/pc-engine?

Oh absolutely! Especially since you said PCE, which easily has the worst composite output I've ever seen! Once you go RGB, you can never go back. Never. Of course, since it is a tv rather than a monitor, the picture is still slightly blurry, but it is nowhere near the infernal blur the composite output delivers. And the colors, oh the colors. The difference cannot be described with words, it really isn't possible.

The only good thing about composite is that it gives you that nice nostalgic feeling of having a bad picture on a bad tv. At least that's the feeling it gives me.

Okay Seldane, here's my question to you:
Do you prefer the technically perfect picture from a PC Engine emulator viewed on a monitor to a real PC Engine with its slight blur on a TV?

[ccovell]

What perfect timing.  I just opened up a page on my site I call "I want my RGB" that has (slightly badly photographed) comparisons of RGB and Composite video for several game systems.

You can see the comparison page here: https://www.chrismcovell.com/gotRGB/screenshots.html

Scroll to the bottom to see the PCE screenshots.

And I disagree with Seldane, the PCE/TG-16 have some of the best composite video of all the 8/16-bit systems.  If you've ever played the Neo-Geo or US Master System through composite, you'd understand.  The clarity of the PCE's composite is almost on par with the SNES/SFC.   Anyway, I invite you to check out my webpage.

[PCEngineHell]

The perfect picture you speak of on a emulator isn't presenting the game as it was originally meant to be viewed. Most any emulator these days is run trough the hardware filters on your computers graphics card that wasn't possible on the original hardware. This has been commonplace since Power VR 2 days.

The actual system hardwares video output was designed around composite and rf analog signal,thats what they intended you to use. By doing the RGB mod you can intercept RGB off of the hardware and obtain a perfect picture in its purest form,however this is not how Hudson and NEC intended you to play as back then RGB was rare in homes,and you have to improve the RGB signals. Esp here in the USA analog RGB didn't gain a good foothold at all. Mostly it was used on computers like the C64/128 and medical equipment and arcade cabs. In Japan it had a slightly more common use but still small and limited to the elite home theater/gaming wise.

 S-video has been up until now what people considered the best visual output on home tvs in NTSC regions overall,until component surpassed it,but not effectively on SDTV. S-video was designed around 480i NTSC or 576i PAL,whereas Component was designed and intended for much higher res with progressive scan ability. Because of this,and some other factors coming into play,sometimes you can have a SDTV with both Component and S-video input and both have the same quality on screen. On some the Component video will be better,but not by much,and typically on these types of tvs where component is better,its because the S-video quality of this tv isn't so hot.

This happens alot on SDTV sets as the manufactures tend to do stupid things like:
If the TV offers Component,S-video,composite,and RF they sometimes crap out and use the worst components possible for the lower grade inputs so that composite will end up looking horrible,S-video will end up looking only slightly better then composite and Component will be absolute king. These kinda SDTVs tend to be the ones with 2-line comb filters,half the time,or 3-line filters that use poor quality chips that cause composite to be so horrible.
Without a good comb filter composite suffers from alot of dot crawl,color bleed,picture noise,ect ect...

Some people don't know this so I am going to list it,The comb filter in your tv is used for composite and Rf,not your S-video and Component video. If you get into laserdisc collecting you'll also find out sometimes your Tvs comb filter can be weaker then your laserdisc players,granted you have a LD player with s-video out and a comb filter,and your TV is dirt old,like early to mid 90ies. All ld players with s-video have comb filters on board to clean the image before it gets sent to the Tv. The only time this isn't the case is if you have a hacked/mod s-video port on a LD player like the laseractive as some people mod those. On good modern tvs with great comb filters better then the one on your LD player you can actually get a better picture using your LD players composite output then using your LD players S-video.


A well built SDTV will have S-video with quality on par with the Component and both will be from a  visual standpoint outstanding looking. These days its going to be harder to find tvs like this SDTV wise. My 24 inch Apex monitor only has S-video and composite,but its quality is superior to my friends Sony Wega 36 inch S-video and composite quality,and is on par with his Component picture quality when compared to my Apexs S-video. I hear people complain about this problem alot with Sony and Philips/Magnovox SDTVs of varring screen sizes also saying the S-video is poorer then what it should be and composite is more RF like then anything else.

[Spector]

The perfect picture you speak of on a emulator isn't presenting the game as it was originally meant to be viewed. Most any emulator these days is run trough the hardware filters on your computers graphics card that wasn't possible on the original hardware. This has been commonplace since Power VR 2 days.

The actual system hardwares video output was designed around composite and rf analog signal,thats what they intended you to use. By doing the RGB mod you can intercept RGB off of the hardware and obtain a perfect picture in its purest form,however this is not how Hudson and NEC intended you to play as back then RGB was rare in homes,and you have to improve the RGB signals. Esp here in the USA analog RGB didn't gain a good foothold at all. Mostly it was used on computers like the C64/128 and medical equipment and arcade cabs. In Japan it had a slightly more common use but still small and limited to the elite home theater/gaming wise.

Your comments about Composite and RGB with respect to the PC Engine along with ccovell's screenshot comparisons (which don't show too much difference) suggest that for me, an AV rather than an RGB mod is the way to go.

[PCEngineHell]

Yea the Pc-Engine/TurboGrafx composite is some of the best composite output for a system Ive ever seen myself. Its still worlds above the Genesis and if your tv is well built is very nice/sharp and with great color.

[Keranu]

What perfect timing.  I just opened up a page on my site I call "I want my RGB" that has (slightly badly photographed) comparisons of RGB and Composite video for several game systems.

You can see the comparison page here: https://www.chrismcovell.com/gotRGB/screenshots.html

Scroll to the bottom to see the PCE screenshots.

And I disagree with Seldane, the PCE/TG-16 have some of the best composite video of all the 8/16-bit systems.  If you've ever played the Neo-Geo or US Master System through composite, you'd understand.  The clarity of the PCE's composite is almost on par with the SNES/SFC.   Anyway, I invite you to check out my webpage.

That page you made is awesome, thanks! I'm impressed with the PCE's composite quality in those shots. Personally, I think the composite looks a bit better for the most part actually. To me, going through a RGB mode for PCE certainly wouldn't be worth it. Same thing goes with NES and SNES.

I admit though, the RGB on SMS and Genesis looks very nice! Of course those systems, as already posted, didn't have good composite to begin with. I've been thinking about doing an s-video mod on my Genesis for awhile now and if it's as good as the RGB in those shots, then I'll have to consider doing it in the future.

[PCEngineHell]

As far as Genesis goes,more examples here:
http://www.sega-16.com/Seeing%20is%20Believing-%20Video%20Connections%202.php

I'm sure Joe remembers doing this. Nothing like seeing Midnight Resistance in its full glory.

[Keranu]

Nice link, Mike. He mentioned that people usually charge around $60 for s-video mods, how much would this cost to do yourself? I recall a friend of mine who does Genesis s-video mods saying it costs him much less than that.

[PCEngineHell]

It depends on the Genesis involved. Model 3 only takes like 7 bucks in parts. The last run of model 2s Gens have the same Sony CX as the Genesis 3 and use the same 7 bucks in parts. Some Genesis 2 decks cant be done at all due to they sometimes had Samsung chips in them. Some have the older Sony CX and can still be done but like the Genesis 1 require a tad bit more work and parts. Around 15-20 bucks worth depending on where you buy your stuff at.

The last Genesis 2 and Genesis 3 decks are the easiest to do. CDX is a pain period. JVC X-eye can be modded too btw.

[Seldane]

Wow, people preferring composite over RGB, I have actually never seen this. Almost shocking! Or are you just narrow-minded and refuse to realize the awful truth by lying? 

[PCEngineHell]

Not sure who your refering to,I perfer RGB (on a arcade monitor or c 64 monitor) over anything else myself if "good" RGB is obtainable. Not everyone has a RGB monitor though,and most SDTV sets just support composite and s-video.

Thing is I do think the RGB or S-video gain from a PC-Engine isn't as big a leap for that system as it is for you to get RGB or S-video from a Genesis deck. Regardless of what you say Seldane composite is pretty good for the Tg/Pc-Engine,esp if you have a great TV with a great comb filter. It still wont be as good as RGB or S-video,but its still pretty damn good,unless its Pal composite. There is a reason people perfer RGB scart to composite there in Europe,cause Pal runs slower and crunches the screen on alot of game systems. Pal simply sucks ass. if I lived in Europe I'd only use RGB period.

[Joe Redifer]

To answer a question from earlier, no, uprading the video to s-video or RGB or component does NOT make it appear more blocky.  If you play on an SDTV, you still get 240p.  If you play on an HDTV, it'll look blocky no matter how you hook it up.

Midnight Resistance was voted BEST GAME EVER MADE by Scott Baio (Chachi).

[Keranu]

Wow, people preferring composite over RGB, I have actually never seen this. Almost shocking! Or are you just narrow-minded and refuse to realize the awful truth by lying? 

On the link Chris provided, component did look better for the most part, but just slightly. However in a few pictures I saw, I thought the composite looked a little better since it made the dithering smoother and the colors actually looked brighter. But it's not really the picture why I prefer composite over component, but for the following reasons: the composite output is already built in, it's a lot cheaper (don't need a fancy TV, any special hardware, no modding), I don't have to waste my time or effort modding a system myself or sending it to get modded, and lastly so I don't have to modify the shape of my system and can keep it how it was originally designed. If you're a videophile and don't mind putting down a lot of money for a mod to make the picture look a little better on your TV, be my guest. For me, I'll be using my money for what gaming is supposed to be used for: GAMES!

[Seldane]

Believe me, the colors are NOT brighter when using composite, it's the other way around. TOTALLY the other way around. If you compare composite vs rgb in reality (i e not pictures/video) you'll see the massive difference.

Also: I spent $2 total in order to get my PCE to output RGB of perfection. No more, no less.

[Keranu]

Believe me, the colors are NOT brighter when using composite, it's the other way around. TOTALLY the other way around. If you compare composite vs rgb in reality (i e not pictures/video) you'll see the massive difference.

Well I guess I would have to see the difference in real life, but honestly I see nothing wrong with using composite so I'll stick with what the console was designed for.

Also: I spent $2 total in order to get my PCE to output RGB of perfection. No more, no less.

You left out the part saying that the typical American like myself needing to buy a new TV with component output. And also $2 is still plenty of good money to use on games!

[PCEngineHell]

True the cost to tap RGB is about nill on the Pc-Engine,the effort on the other hand is a bit more,esp for people with no prior mod experience. And there are plenty of people who are just fine with composite,and are happy with how it looks. Its not worth arguing over or trying to insult someone over because it boils down to personal perference which can change from person to person.

Not just that,the RGB mod may be cheap,and if you live in europe your tv probably accepts RGB scart already,but over here you have to trow down cash for a RGB capable monitor. Thats not worth it for some people as Keranu said,who are not videophiles. Take that into account and add the fact that if you want component video out and you want that mod done on each system individually its going to cost some cash and effort to do unless you build a breakout box and use a universal type cord system tapping normal rgb and converting it into component,which still cost more then 2 bucks.

[Joe Redifer]

Modding my Turbo for RGB was TOTALLY worth it.  Yes, the Turbo's composite is extremely good, but it shimmers like a bitch when the screen scrolls.  On Ys 1&2, when Feena appears on the title screen using the oval crystal to cover her enormous tits, her blue her is flickering back and forth.  Looks bad.  With RGB, all of the shimmering is gone, Feena's hair doesn't flicker and she doesn't use the oval crystal to block her boobs, she shows them in full glory!    But seriously, more details can be seen, the reds are MUCH better (the other colors are only a teeny bit better than composite).

I'm wondering how ccovell or whatever his name is got his NES to output RGB.