Messages

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: ElkinFencer10 BST (Insert witty title that stands out here; buy my games)]

...but what if they're just lazy and just have a list of games they want cleared out?
I mean what IF it's a $3 Contra

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: ElkinFencer10 BST (Insert witty title that stands out here; buy my games)]

Oh, I totally know why...
 

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: ElkinFencer10 BST (Insert witty title that stands out here; buy my games)]

I don't know why so many of these threads don't have prices listed up front...
What are you looking to get for Dragon Warrior 2, tmnt3, and Crystalis?

[General Gaming / Re: Sega CD advice ( model 1 vs cdx)]

I agree, unfortunately. I own a model 1 and a model 2 Sega CD and the model 2 is far more reliable and in the end is easier to repair.
The model 1 looks way better though... I've got the 1 working pretty well but it still struggles to close the tray about 25% of the time.
I would avoid cdx based on cost alone.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Good Duo R Power Adapter for North America/Canada setup?]

Im not sure for DUO R, but I have changed the tip for my DUO. You will probably have to look at the polarity and size of the tip when you get it, or review the page for sizing information. If you need to swap tips, I usually go to www.console5.com
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BRKFII

edit*
Just checked the tip I cut off against a model 2 genesis and you will need to cut it off -
https://console5.com/store/sega-genesis-2-3-nomad-cdx-power-connector-plug.html

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Good Duo R Power Adapter for North America/Canada setup?]

The PWR+ branded adapters on Amazon are supposed to be tested and recommended by retro gaming roundtable. I use one on my DUO (replaced the tip) and haven't had any issues. I'm doing the same for a friend's SCDR² tomorrow.
(They are UL listed)

[Buy/Sell/Trade / WTB: Formation Armed F]

Anyone have a copy of Formation Armed F that they would like to unload. Loose is totally fine.
I discovered this game for the first time recently and really like the visuals and music

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Please close cover! Audio issues!]

Yep, it was beyond my ability. I did suspect ic104 was bad in the end, but I wasn't testing it correctly and wouldn't have been able to get another easily anyways.
I learned a TON trying to figure this out and actually really enjoyed it up until I knew I couldn't do it. Knowing when to get professional help is something I still struggle with, on any project.
Super glad it was able to get fixed up by thesteve. I look forward to using it

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Please close cover! Audio issues!]

I probed the switch today and, just as you said, I get signal on one side when its open and both when its closed.

I dont have a lot of time to play around with it today, but after I swap out the pots and put all the removed components back I feel like I'm just sending it off to thesteve.
Defeated.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Please close cover! Audio issues!]

I checked logic of IC520 this morning.

At the bios screen:
1 - 9: H/L Pulse
10: L
11-18: H/L Pulse
19: H Pulse
20: H/L Pulse

While running a HuCard:
1:H
2-9: H/L Pulse
10: L
11-18 H/L Pulse
19: H Pulse
20: H

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Please close cover! Audio issues!]

Thank you for coming by Sir Steve!

I wanted a break from the low voltage rail to mess around with the CD side again, today.
I took measurements from the switch to IC104:
Switch to IC104 pin 32: 18.9k ohm
-------------------pin 33: 2.2k ohm
-------------------pin 34: 18.8k ohm
-------------------pin 35: 19k ohm

IC104 pin 8 to switch: 4.7k ohm

I also tested the logic of IC104, at the BIOS screen
1 H
2 L
3 L
4 H
5 NOTHING
6 H
7 H
8 L (lid switch open or closed)
9 H/L PULSE
10 H/L PULSE
11 H
12 L
13 NOTHING
14 H
15 NOTHING
16 L
17 NOTHING
18 L
19 H

20 L
21 H PULSE
22 H
23 L
24 L PULSE
25 L
26 L
27 L
28 NOTHING
29 NOTHING
30 NOTHING
31 NOTHING
32 L

33 L (open or closed)
34 L (open or closed)
35 L (open or closed)
36 H
37 H
38 H
39 H PULSE
40 H/L PULSE
41 H/L PULSE
42 H/L PULSE
43 H/L PULSE
44 H/L PULSE
45 H/L PULSE
46 H/L PULSE
47 L
48 L
49 H/L PULSE
50 H/L PULSE
51 H/L PULSE

52 H/L PULSE
53 H/L PULSE
54 H/L PULSE
55 H/L PULSE
56 H/L PULSE
57 H
58 H
59 L
60 L
61 L
62 L
63 H
64 H

Finally, I took some pot measurements at VR101-105. To be blunt, I am sure they need to be swapped.
I reinstalled IC520, for this - it still gets too hot. Which of these is correct? Will they all be ok to use?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=zhgwDAIOVxsHa0ucvb6uNw%3d%3d
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=w32V8uFkMxmYRFvChjgYdA%3d%3d
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=afYny40WCj2l4ve8LWqd9g%3d%3d

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Please close cover! Audio issues!]

Could someone please tell me the value of the resistor at R137? I am missing it.
It's on the back of the board in the CD section, near the unused white  connector, on the corner.

Edit* Seems like there isn't one there.
I'm going to run this board through the dishwasher. I pulled up three cermaic caps along the troubled rail and gained voltage, so that it comes up to ~3.5v instead of 0.9v. I'm hoping that a dishwasher cleaning and rinse with distilled water followed by 91% will clean off any residual electrolytic fluid, flux, or loose solder bridges that I have missed in the other soakings and manual brushings.
I have no idea what I'll do if it makes no difference. I guess freeze spray the board...

Eidt 2**
I should have figured my fingers had lost a lot of heat sensitivity. Passed my wrist by ic520 and it's way too hot. I removed it and get a white screen (bios fails to boot) but cards work. I have to look at the traces since I'm guessing it's working but maybe not properly.

 I'm just posting here as a blog of my adventure, at this point.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Please close cover! Audio issues!]

I think that is entirely possible. What I am afraid of is that it's caused by a bad IC, like 104/105.  I can logic probe these, but I am not sure if the tables I've seen here, from other problem posts, are ok to use as reference.
I think I need to take some time away from this. I spent 7 hours straight on it yesterday, just beating my head on the wall.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Please close cover! Audio issues!]

Well. I've removed a lot of chips in my attempts to eliminate the issue.
From the back, I've pulled IC: 521, 504, and 503
From the front, I've pulled IC:505 and 502, 203, and 202, along with capacitors 305, 306, and 615 in the audio section.

On the back I also went to D306 again... I lifted the right leg.
Audio works. And it works great. I still, however, have low voltage across that rail from Q304.
AND the bios also reads "Just a moment"...but the CD drive is disconnected.
If I reconnect the drive without ground leads it still says that.
I connect ground leads and it tells me to close the cover again.
Remove the same grounds again...still close the cover.

NOPE. I DONT UNDERSTAND.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Please close cover! Audio issues!]

Looks like you are right. I removed Q304 and bench tested it - it seems ok with just a slight voltage drop on the leg that's giving me trouble. It looks like there is a lot more to this than I am finding on my own.
I'll reinstall the little guy and try an inverted air duster spray, since I dont own a thermal camera, to look for heat.

The battery in my meter just died, swapped it out, and I am seeing a some connection between ground and positive rails. Sheesh.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Please close cover! Audio issues!]

I can't find anything shorted, since I removed the reactors on av out.
Someone had tried reworking this board before me (also lovingly applied copper sheeting to the bottom of the case) so it may have happened then or it could have just died from the cap fluid leak(?)
I dealt with a bad voltage regulator on a Nomad once, but it was main power and I never did find out why it died. Replaced and no issues after.

Fidde-se's thread should be stickied, I think. The information on the traces, paths, part numbers, and readings looks invaluable for troubleshooting audio.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Please close cover! Audio issues!]

Keith suggested a possible smd regulator. I found this thread:
https://www.pcengine-fx.com/forums/index.php?topic=23041.0

All 4558:
Check that pin 4 has ground connection.
Check that pin 8 has power (≈7.3V)
Power for all 4558 IC506, IC507, IC503, IC521 (also IC203 CD part and IC202 CD part but 4560) gets its regulated power from Q304 (SMD Mark BR, located in the middle of the cap jungle beside the two main regulators) Japanese SOT-23 (SC-70) incoming ≈8.2V on pin 3, outgoing ≈7.3V on pin 2 and pin 1 should ≈8.0V, IC107 4558 (CD part).

This regulator IS only putting out .9v on the leg which is what I'm seeing on the rail. I feel pretty confident this is the issue for the audio. I'll source a couple and swap asap.
Then on to the CD issues.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Please close cover! Audio issues!]

I appreciate it. I re-recapped the audio section and the result is the same, so I am just missing it entirely. I'm just about ready to tap 5v from another rail and run it right to where I need it to be for audio.
I don't have facebook so its probably dead for thesteve. I read a ton of his posts recently.
The logic probe came today, so I'll start checking what I have against some threads that I found and hope that the other posted values of others are correct.

This place seems a lot slower than it was the last time I was here

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Please close cover! Audio issues!]

Can anyone at all tell me where the voltage originates for the audio circuitry?
There's a large trace/rail on the back of the board that feeds voltage to the audio caps, ic505 and op amps, both near the av connector and all the way down and across to the CD side of the board. This is the line I fed 5v to and regained audio, in testing, but I want to fix this correctly and in the right place.
I have definitely over-looked something and cannot figure out the source capacitor or trace. Something really simple most likely.
I also do not know if it should be 5v or more, since I've read some people seeing over 7v at ic505 pin 1 but that would mean it probably comes directly off the large power filter caps and I can't see where that would come from either.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Please close cover!]

Im working on a no audio issue as well - replaced the op amps today, at IC506 and IC507. I did not get anything and noticed the voltage was 0.91v.
I followed this to D306 where I saw that same low voltage on the right lower leg and 5v on the lower left, nearest R315, and 3.9-4v at the top.
I removed the diode completely and I HAVE AUDIO (quiet and noisy, but still!)  I tested 5v on pin 1 of IC505, from the  7805, and it improves GREATLY and the headphone jack also works (did not before).
If I check voltage of the top pad the volume is cut considerably.
Low voltage persists at the right pad - and therefore the same .9v at the op amp pin 8.
Shouldnt this be higher voltage than 5v? More like 7v?

This looks to be the exactly the same diode that controls the CD cover door switch that is also giving me grief at D102. It looks to say P 41 on both.
D602 looks identical and I can make out P 41 more clearly. I would love to swap these out but P 41 doesn't seem enough to go by for replacement.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/LSIC2SD120D10?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutXGli8Ay4kCGDIyhNvP0xCPPxVA6pmGo%3d
I found this, but I am really unsure if it is correct, as I dont have experience with diodes like this.

What is ZD302, near the pins for IC505 on the back side?? Shouldnt that read around 8v?

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Please close cover!]

I should say that the hucard slot works fine. I'm waiting for some new op amps but composite video is ok.
When I initially power it on the laser eye moves horizontally, but doesn't try focusing vertically. It does not move the sled. I applied voltage to the motor and sled, individually, and both seem to move freely.

Reflowed ic104
Ordered up a logic probe...

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Please close cover! Audio issues!]

Been a long time...
I decided to try my hand at repairing a Duo and have replaced all capacitors but, even after shorting the lid switch, the console keeps telling me "Please close cover!"
Does anyone have values for the diode at D102? I'm reading 660+ohms between the two lower points and the common, which leads to the microcontroller ic.
The switch itself is good, for what it's worth...but I've still jumped the two pads next to it for testing.


Edit*
Audio somewhat restored by removing the diode at D306, which reads less than 1v on right pad near large trace and 5v on left pad, near R315

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: RAFFLE for newbs - WINNER!!]

Corredor X is our weiner!
Thanks for playing everyone. A successful raffle.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Opening a PCE AV Booster (without breaking it)?]

I'd just use a 3 LB hammer.

Or a hair dryer.

You need to hack the hairdryer first.

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: RAFFLE for newbs]

Heh, didn't see this topic till today, nice raffle! Here's a picture of the pretty one, complete with the worst Bonk drawing you'll ever see 

It's the best drawing in the thread!

[Buy/Sell/Trade / Re: RAFFLE for newbs]

I'm a little surprised at the number of entrants...
No other newbs that qualify or no other newbs want these gems.
Well... If there aren't more people by the end of the week, I'll just pick one of you two

[General Gaming / Re: Sega CD model 1 repair]

Isn't the lens assembly lifted by the helix gear and large black tray gear?

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: Turbob Xpress: Bringing affordable "gamer's" games to the community! Round 2 Go!]

I want to say THANK YOU.
I received my games a little while ago but have not had the chance to really get to them until today.  Super nice looking discs and I appreciate what this has done for the community.

[General Gaming / Re: Sega CD model 1 repair]

I think if you have too much grease on the gears it will slip.  See if any of them have worn down.  I know you can replace the tray loading gear, possibly others but I can't remember.
Have you tried it with the top off, to see which gear is giving you trouble?

Still havent sourced a replacement belt (though, I havent looked either).

[Buy/Sell/Trade / RAFFLE for newbs - WINNER!!]

Ladies and germs, our winner is Corredor X.

I am raffling off three games for users with post counts between 25-200.  You must reply with a photo of your console with username to enter.  No text entries will be accepted. Participants who include a hand-drawn picture with their entry will be entered more than once, up to four times(!), if I like the picture.
Winner will be selected before the end of December. Really

The games are not special...  I got them in a bundle a long time ago and they just sit around, unloved and unplayed.
They are:
Fire Pro Wrestling: 2nd bout
Pro Baseball World Stadium '91
Sadakichi Seven (hope to god you can read and understand Japanese)

Chime in if you want to enter the waffle.  Winner will receive all three games...whether you like it or not.

/pdiggitydogg/PCEWaffles.jpg

[General Gaming / Re: Sega CD model 1 repair]

Yeah, after messing around some more, I agree its the belt. Lots of slack.
I also need to either replace the laser or attempt tweaking the pots (highly unlikely).
A music CD loaded if I flipped the power off when the tray was fully closed, but only played track 1 - no game would load.

[General Gaming / Sega CD model 1 repair]

Would anyone know if I can trigger a model 1 drive tray operation without connecting a Genesis?
It's kind of a big hassle go rig both together while the CD unit is so disassembled.

I am in the midst of repairing this model 1 and am having trouble with the tray staying closed. I believe it is aligned correctly and I've soaked the drive belt in hot water to restore some memory to it.
The gears all seem fine and manually turning it works OK...and it seems that the switch is being triggered... But all this is difficult to tell while there's a Genesis pearched on top.

[General Gaming / Re: Everdive Sale]

Missed this sale last year (complicated) and was going to buy a turboed now...but sold out

[Off-Topic / The “What-Did-You-Buy-Today?” Thread]

I received a broken model 1 Sega CD yesterday. Fuse is bad but sonis the transistor and the drive belt. Gears seem OK!
The faceplate is pretty wrecked though

If you or anyone you know repairs these, let me know as I've got one disassembled somewhere in the depths of my closet

It's my first attempt at a model 1. Replacing caps and fuses is easy though time consuming...I am not sure what I would do if the mechanical bits were busted...

[Off-Topic / The “What-Did-You-Buy-Today?” Thread]

I received a broken model 1 Sega CD yesterday. Fuse is bad but sonis the transistor and the drive belt. Gears seem OK!
The faceplate is pretty wrecked though

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: SD-card or HDD replacement for CD drive?]

Well for what it's worth, Deunan's most recent update indicated that he is stil planning on going after the PC Engine.  That doesn't mean it will happen, but since Phoebe seems to be about finished, maybe he can dedicate more time to it.

I will use that time to get some rest, finally finish the next proto PCB for PCE, and play Fallout 4.

I've been following that. I wasn't aware there was a new update.
It's encouraging

https://gdemu.wordpress.com/


Also, first post, so hello everyone.

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: Turbob Xpress: Bringing affordable "gamer's" games to the community!]

They're coming!!

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: Print your own stuff... (D.I.Y. GoT/Ys IV inserts & more)]

Ys!! Thank you!!!!

[Off-Topic / Re: Sega Nomad internal rechargeable battery mod]

That would be the simplest thing to do, yeah. I am over complicating it trying to shoehorn in ideas of 5v relays and whatnot...

[Off-Topic / Re: Sega Nomad internal rechargeable battery mod]

I'm getting about 3hr 40mins run time.  Charging time is a lot longer, i can you tell it's over 4 hours (went to bed before it finished charging).

pdiggitydogg, yes, I separated ground and positive of the ac jack from main mother board and wired them to step down convertor.  The low battery led on the nomad doesn't blink on low battery with this mod.  It stays lid.

Also, I had wired my setup (since I was basically using just the batteries and all of my safeties were external) directly to the factory battery prong locations (removed the prongs).  The battery light still worked correctly when done this way.  However, there was not a ton of warning.  I think I would only get maybe 60-90 seconds more usage after the light would come on.  Just enough to hopefully save your game if you were playing Beyond Oasis or something like that.

By connecting the lipo set to the oe battery points, internally, does it still charge with the original jack/adapter? Can you use the AC for power when the batteries are flat?

That was the major drawback to my setup.  The A/C port became the charging port (the A/C port was no longer connected in it's original location but rather wired directly to the battery packs).  Since, all of my charging protection occurred in the extern charging unit you could not play while the batteries were charging.  You also did not have a way to use a wall adapter if the batteries were dead.

This was one of the major issues I hoped I could change in the future.  I think turbokon is on the right path with his setup.  I think I should use his ideas but change the charging circuit up a bit

This is my hangup.
I want the jack to still power the unit if/when I want it to, in addition to changing the batteries. Is this a relay issue?
It's probably something I am just not understanding as a real modding novice.

[Off-Topic / Re: Sega Nomad internal rechargeable battery mod]

I'm getting about 3hr 40mins run time.  Charging time is a lot longer, i can you tell it's over 4 hours (went to bed before it finished charging).

pdiggitydogg, yes, I separated ground and positive of the ac jack from main mother board and wired them to step down convertor.  The low battery led on the nomad doesn't blink on low battery with this mod.  It stays lid.

Also, I had wired my setup (since I was basically using just the batteries and all of my safeties were external) directly to the factory battery prong locations (removed the prongs).  The battery light still worked correctly when done this way.  However, there was not a ton of warning.  I think I would only get maybe 60-90 seconds more usage after the light would come on.  Just enough to hopefully save your game if you were playing Beyond Oasis or something like that.

By connecting the lipo set to the oe battery points, internally, does it still charge with the original jack/adapter? Can you use the AC for power when the batteries are flat?

[Off-Topic / Re: Sega Nomad internal rechargeable battery mod]

Thank you.
This is the idea I was going to use, utilizing this same charger listed here
.http://portablesofdoom.org/?p=286
It runs the batteries in series instead of using a step up transformer... I haven't tried running the system an anything lower than 7.5v from a phone adapter.

[Off-Topic / Re: Sega Nomad internal rechargeable battery mod]

Nice work. My Nomad is slated for this as well - I was going to mock it up like what is on portablesofdoom.

Edit.
I would love if you did a little more detailed write up for this. My main question is where you made contact for the charger/AC adapter circuit... Did you remove the ground pin from the original jack? Can you take some pictures of that with labels?
Does your low battery indicator light still work?

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: Turbob Xpress: Bringing affordable "gamer's" games to the community!]

This thread has set a new record for unfamilar/low-post-count usernames outside of a raffle thread.

I suspect that this period will also see a record number of new users.

Ive noticed that.  How I have been dealing with that is this.  When an old timer PMs me, he/she automatically goes to the front of the line.  I feel that is only fair, even though I am sure we will have enough to go around.

I pm'd and volunteered to be bumped for old timers. I know my place.
 

[PCE/TG-16|CD/SGX Discussion / Re: SD-card or HDD replacement for CD drive?]

The gent working on sd card units on Dreamcast and Saturns.
GDEMU.WordPress.com

so far it has not been going well.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: CVS 287 RGB Scart to Component converter]

A quick search tells me the voltage on the 5v pin isn't always the same. I came across a thread, similar to this, where a voltage regulator was suggested, to keep it at 5v...but should be possible.
5v seems too low, but you could always try it using a spare USB charger to get 5v out and see if that powers your converter reliably.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: PCE RGB output help]

Where are you pulling sync from? On the expansion port (I'm assuming you grabbed your signals there) there is a pin near those for rgb that is labeled 'sync' and there is another for composite video.
Some have better luck with composite video as sync.

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Sync trouble]

That's interesting. I am getting some voltage at mine, but clearly not much.
There is a pad there, connected to a resistor, I believe (?)

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Sync trouble]

It's an aftermarket cable from retroconsoleaccessories, not the pal Scart lead

[Console Repair/Mod Center / Re: Sync trouble]

Agh! It was the 5v...
I had a good connection, but for some reason the av jacknis only showing 0.5v. Tapped 5v at the expansion port and its working. I am guessing the Hama has a 5v bar shared across everything, no matter what.